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The Leather Element: Applying a Leather Liner with Contact Cement

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Get the leathercraft supplies you need to line leather with suede below: S-18 All Purpose Cement (50-2125): https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2125-8/s-18-all-purpose-cement/pr_8177 Barge All Purpose Cement (50-2129): https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2129/barge-all-purpose-cement/pr_8180 Suede(10-1115SP): https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/10-/suede-leather-cowhide/pr_56634 In this week's installment of "The Leather Element," Chuck Dorsett demonstrates how to line leather with suede using contact cement — Barge or S-18 will work. Applying a leather liner with contact cement can be messy if there's no technique behind it. Watch this video to learn how line leather with no mess and perfect cuts. Interested in dyeing your leather with the light brown Pro Dye? Find it at Weaver Leathercraft: https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/50-2030/fiebings-professional-oil-dye/pr_55888 #TheLeatherElement
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Text Comments (36)
minty 178 (3 days ago)
It would be sensible to wear gloves when doing projects like this.
Electric Joe (5 months ago)
good step by step instructions,thank you.
Weaver Leathercraft (5 months ago)
Thank you!
Legend Entertainment (6 months ago)
Chuck Dorcet is a Genius .. These videos are King. So viewer friendly & quick !
Weaver Leathercraft (6 months ago)
Thank you so much!
FLBarrelRacer851993 (6 months ago)
Hi Chuck! Love your videos, they're always easy to follow! I have a question regarding spots (harness spots with 2 prongs on the back.) and applying them to horse tack items. My question is, I see a lot of headstalls/breast collars that are 2 layers of leather, stitched together, then the spots have been added over the stitching, but the prongs are not visible from the back side. Is it ok for the prongs not to go completely through and just be inside the 2 layers of leather? Is that secure enough to hold? (If that makes sense.) Thanks!
FLBarrelRacer851993 (6 months ago)
Thank you so much! :)
Weaver Leathercraft (6 months ago)
Hello, We are a bit stumped on this one. The headstalls we manufacture here at Weaver have the spots set into the top layer of leather and then the second layer is sewn on, this way the tines are curled under and the second layer gives added security. But, the method you are inquiring about- laying the spots in over the stitch line and ending inside the backing leather doesn’t allow for the tines of the spot to curl. The tines may curl, somewhat, as they move through the leather which may give them some level of hold, but outside of that, I am not sure these won’t pull out in a short amount of time. I hate it that I don’t have a better answer for you. A little experimenting may be in order to see what kind of strength it takes to pull out a spot that’s laid in this way. It doesn’t sound like a good way to go, but, the tines may have just enough grip to stay secure. If you try some samples let me know what you find out!
Betty Lee (8 months ago)
Hi Chuck, your videos are great for beginners getting into the craft! One small question, are the edges finished before gluing on the liner, or should I bevel afterwards? Thanks!
Betty Lee (8 months ago)
Thanks so much!
Weaver Leathercraft (8 months ago)
Hi Betty, The edges are beveled and top coat applied before gluing on the liner, you can watch the complete video on how the mouse pad was made from start to finish here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5rg9jNPQ7o
Kaleb Zook (8 months ago)
I’m looking at having a go at making some suspenders for my firefighting bunker pants and would like to line the shoulder area in suede and have some cutouts to show the contrasting suede color. My question is I see there is both cow and pig suede. What are the differences and what one would work best for a long lasting product that will be durable. Think a final weight of 9oz with lining.
Weaver Leathercraft (8 months ago)
That sounds beautiful; your suspenders would be very unique! The pig suede is usually a “garment” weight (1-2 oz.) and the cow is usually a 3-4 oz. (common suede weight). In your case, the cow would work nicely and would be very durable, and, 21 gorgeous colors to work with: http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/ItemCatalogListing/001/34
Melissa G (9 months ago)
Great video! Can you show us how to inlay cabochon's in leather? Pretty please? I can't seem to find any videos on how to do this and I have tons of leather and semi-precious cabochon stones. Thanks!
Melissa G (8 months ago)
Thanks a bunch, i followed. My IG is coyotesuncreations.
Caroline Mernin (8 months ago)
Melissa G hey Melissa 😊 i too searched and didn't find much. Luckily i have a couple of leatherwork mentors that pointed me in the right direction. I can help you out if needed. If you can find me on ig avalisejewellery i can show you.
Weaver Leathercraft (8 months ago)
Melissa, yes, if the stones are large enough you can wet-form a lighter weight around the base and then sew, or possibly glue this on as the setting. The glue may work, but stitching or riveting would be the best bet for long-term durability. I’ve seen this done with coins and it looks pretty good. This also opens up some very creative possibilities with the shape of the leather as it forms around the stone! Good luck with it and let us know how it goes!
Melissa G (9 months ago)
Thanks for the info! What about wet molding? Is that maybe how they do it?
Weaver Leathercraft (9 months ago)
Melissa, thanks for the comment. This is an age-old problem because glue just won’t last. The cabochon needs some type of hardware attached, and I really haven't found anything that will work perfectly.The only thing I can suggest is this: The setting needs to be large enough to drill a small hole so a small double cap rivet (or some kind of a rivet) can attach the setting to the leather. If this can be done then you’ll have a very durable set. Hopefully this helps you out a little bit. Double cap rivets: http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/55590/001/66
Skyline Leather Co (9 months ago)
Thanks for the video
Cliff Warmoth (9 months ago)
Great video!
Scott Fuller (9 months ago)
Thank you so much for taking the time for another great video Chuck!
Trish Hinkle (9 months ago)
Great tips, Chuck, thanks for the video.
Randy Wiggins (9 months ago)
What glue is best if you need it to stay pliable? Like for a journal that needs to fold over.
Weaver Leathercraft (9 months ago)
Randy! Thanks for emailing! Good question too! The Barge and the S-18 contact cement are both perfect for projects because they remain very flexible, and, they won’t give out if moisture ever enters the picture. I would cover both pieces completely and, maybe, a second coat on the edges (just to make sure there’s a good bond on the edges). This will make the two pieces react and feel like one piece and it won’t ripple or bubble when folded. Give the glue five to ten minutes to dry (it will look wet but feel dry and a bit tacky) and then bond the two pieces together and you will have a project that will remain flexible for years and years!
George DeWhite (9 months ago)
The grey knife feels like an old friend now! (I watched these videos all day the other day when I was sick). XD
Weaver Leathercraft (9 months ago)
George, your comment really struck me and I’m still thinking about it! “Like an old friend.” It really is. Thank you for taking the time to send in one of the coolest comments I’ve gotten!
Valorie Brown (9 months ago)
Thanks for another great video. Would you think about making one on how to line something that folds, like a wallet?
Weaver Leathercraft (9 months ago)
Valorie, we line a laptop bag in this video, and I think it will help you out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVWO4sCzk7o
Pat Geren (9 months ago)
Chuck , If I accidentally get a bit of glue (Barge) on my table , do you have a cool trick to get it off the table ?
Weaver Leathercraft (9 months ago)
Pat, thanks for asking. Yes, glue on the table can be frustrating! The contact cement seems to be the easiest to remove because it won’t really set until it hits more contact cement. I would give it about five minutes and it should roll off like a small piece of rubber. If it’s just a work table and you’re not worried about a nice table with a finish then Deglazer will remove just about anything and it evaporates out pretty quickly. I hope this helps!
Dave Dreds (9 months ago)
I really like your videos. Thanks for the info.
Rohn's Leather (9 months ago)
I really get a lot of enjoyment from your videos. I'm looking forward to the next one.
Arne Sandness (9 months ago)
Excellent advice! I'll be sure to have a glue-free work area from now on.
Patrick Melchior (9 months ago)
Love the videos Chuck. We've learned so much and its's helped our product.
tbonebrown94 (9 months ago)
I Really enjoy your videos.

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