Before we kick off on this: I’m in ‘Straya. We spell it with a ‘Y’, like, I dunno, everywhere on earth except Retardistan, which is also called ‘Merica. Knock yourself out in the comments feed, on this, Jethro. Say hi to Jim-Bob and Ellie-Mae. Enjoy the spit roast. And all the other hillbilly fun. There’s a whole world outside the USA. How long has that been the case.
I’m John Cadogan, from AutoExpert.com.au - the place where Aussie new car buyers save thousands off their next new cars. Hit me up on the website for that.
Welcome to another ‘What the FAQ’ - which oxygenates your more common questions and (I hope) equips you with the facts you need to jump these vexatious hurdles.
There are about 12 million cars on Australian roads, which means - ballpark - 50 million tyres. And that means replacement tyres, even in a global backwater such as this, are big business. I get several recurring questions on this, which all boil down to:
Which tyres should I buy?
The basics are: They have to be the right size - and the right load rating. You can choose a tyre with a load rating greater than the minimum, but not less than that. That’s a detail the tyre retailer usually looks after.
I’m kinda passionate about tyres because for five or six years I ran all the Wheels Magazine annual tyre tests. We conscripted the assistance of a lot of local tyre engineers to get the testing protocols right for those tests, and as a result, I learned a lot more than I ever thought I would about tyres.
So the first thing you need to know is that the manufacturers of quality tyres all have a real problem: Tyres are all black and round, so the really good ones look exactly the same as the really shit ones. It’s a marketing challenge par excellence.
If you’re a non-technical person, it can be quite hard to believe a good tyre that looks exactly the same as a shit tyre, but costs maybe $100 bucks more is actually that much better. But - trust me on this - it is.
There are a great many urban myths on various tyre brands - like some are allegedly quieter. Some are allegedly better at grip in the wet - whatever.
Having stood on the side of the track, set up the timing beams, briefed the race driver, consulted with the expert engineers, I can tell you those brand-based myths are bullshit.
The number one thing to remember when you’re buying replacement tyres is that all the known, quality brands: Pirelli, Dunlop, Goodyear, Bridgestone, Continental, Toyo, Michelin, Yokohama - et cetera - you know the ones I mean - all those quality brands perform about the same as each other, for a particular size and category of tyre.
Obviously a Pirelli on a Porsche is very likely to out-perform a Yokohama on a Yaris. We’re talking apples-for-apples here.
I’d include Hankook and Kumho on that ‘quality brands’ list, too - they are definitely up there, at least they are today. And I say this on the basis of trackside measurements - testing - that I actually conducted. There’s no doubt. And FYI - I have no commercial affiliation with any tyre manufacturer.
The number two thing is: Don’t ask for brand-type advice at the retail coal face. Retailers are incentivised by different manufacturers - so there are different agendas at play. The retailer invariable recommends the tyre that’s right for him, commercially, not necessarily you.
I’d get three different quotes on three different quality brands, over the phone, and go with the cheapest one. It really is that simple. But asking brand advice from a tyre retailer is like walking into a Mazda dealer and asking him if Toyota is any good. It’s not a place where unbiased advice is forthcoming.
Even among hi end brands there are standard, touring, Grand touring, summer, winter, all season and now all weather tires... Even among those some are louder, or stickier, or better in light snow or last longer. I am always selecting tires for friends. ..tire rack and consumers reports helps....after I ask a few questions. How are you going to drive, where and what are your expectations?
Hi John, I am an Electronic Ginger Beer and thought you were full of it at the start of your Blogs. I understand now that you do know what you are talking about and apologise , my mistake. Keep up the great work. I am subscribed.
Scrubbing in tyres is not about getting rid of the coating the manufacturers put on them, that coating doesn't take long to wear off. It's about 'melding' the rubber to the steel belts. Scrubbing in a tyre is getting them to operating temperature SLOWLY by driving the car as it was being driven in the rain. After about 100 km when the tyres are nice and hot, GRADUALLY increase throttle, braking and steering inputs for another 100km. By the time the tyres reach this 200km mark, the car should be being pushed hard. Don't forget the spare needs to be done too. Obviously the best place to do this is on a winding road.
I bought a set of 20s for my suburban off of ebay some company that was so embarrassed there wasn't even a company name the cost 68.00 per unit they have held up really well just can't drive on wet pavement with out the 4 wheel engaged lol
I always ask for the best tyre to suit the car
After all it’s the only connection with the road
Just thrown a set of absolutely shit tyres off a friends Falcon and fitted a quality set of name brand tyres
What a difference to the car
I definitely agree that cheap no name tyres should be avoided at all costs. If that's the value you put on you and your loved ones' lives, then go right ahead and buy them. The same applies to tyres that last a long time, but compromise grip.
On the other hand, I don't agree that most of the major brands perform about the same. Some introduce/increase understeer in front wheel drive cars. Some are noisier on course bitumen and still other premium tyres reduce comfort levels. Here is first hand experience: The Hyundai i30 SR Premium comes standard with Hankook Ventus Prime 2. I got rid of them and put on Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tyres. The Michelins produced fabulous results when compared to the Hankook. Not that the Hankook tyres are necessarily bad, but the Michelin reduced the understeer (not that the i30 has a lot of it anyway), and are quieter on course bitumen. Comfort levels are similar between the two brands. So no, all tyres, not even the premium ones, are created equal.
5:50 Disagree. The bloke who is trying to get his Holden Commodore sorted on a tight budget can't really afford to be buying the most expensive tyres. They're expensive. He's asking a pretty sensible question: "What is the cheapest set of tyres for my old banger that will do the job?" You might say "oh but you can't put a price on safety", to which I would counter, why haven't *you* spent an extra $10,000 upgrading your braking system and suspension?
How to make an old car with cheap tyres safer? Drive slower. My experience of drivers in Australia - or in NSW at least - is that they drive stupidly fast; with Australia having less than half the population of the UK I think Australians are in the habit of trusting to luck on the roads, assuming that there won't be a hazard round that next sharp bend.
These days I can afford top-budget tyres, but for many years I drove old bangers and never had an accident because I drove within the limits of my car. Also, while I have never bought retreads, I sometimes bought part-worn tyes.
When I was a youngster working a summer in the Goodyear store my dad managed, he showed me a list of DOT numbers. Compare the DOT number on a tire to the list and it would show you who made the tire. I started checking all the Goodyear tires on the shelf and found that they were made by virtually every name tire company you could think of. Kelly-Springfield, Uniroyal, Firestone, Cooper etc. They make each others tires on contract. When I lived in Fulda, Germany I found out that the Fulda Reifen Tire plant was also the German Goodyear plant and the only difference was that they changed the name plate in the mould.
Sorry John. Some years ago when i had a Peugeot 504 and not much money, I had four Bearepairs retreads fitted which had a locally formulated tread compound and the Olympic 100 pattern. In terms of steering response (directional stability) they were excellent tyres and were really good (unlike some earlier European tyres like Michelin) in the wet. At the time in the early '90's, I paid about $45 each for them. I understand that this may not be the case today - Beaurepairs no longer make retreads, and retreads seem to be difficult to source now. But I also doubt that Beaurepairs wouldn't have sold retreads (which they did for years) if they were geniunely unsafe. I suspect that Beaurepairs stopped making them during the '90's recession because so many people were buying them as they had trouble affording new tyres.
I think the times are changing. There is nothing like personal emperical evidence. For years and years I spent tons of money on Pirellis, Dunlops, Continentals and tried some Bridgestones (that were SO loud (howling tread) I thought I was driving a military Land Rover). In Winter I used Pirelli Asymetricos winter tyres and couldn't get up some hills. I then tried some cheap Nankangs. I got up the hills with those where the Pirellis failed. I then decided to try Nankang summer tyres and proceeded in my normal way to hammer up and down the Autobahns at 150+ No difference. Grip, feeling braking all just as good... and quiet. Smae rate of wear. The Nankangs cost a third of the others. I now use them all the time.
i have an s2000 and for wear, cost and grip combo sumitumo treadwear 300 was great. goodyear eagle f1 great for grip, only lasted 5k and cost a lot. i think michelin and bridgestone are nice enough, felt heavy and let go at high performance level
Retreads should be illegal. I was driving my dad's van and unknown to me on a retreaded front tire which exploded at 50km/h and nearly made the van flip in heavy traffic.
The van also had no insurance. I could have been paying off the reoair bill for hitting a porche for the rest of my young years before I even understood the importance of insurance. Thanks mum and Dad.
Just in case this helps anyone. I drive the compact Lexus SUV nx200. Tyres came with the car brand new (Bridgestones Dueler HT33). I simply do highway mileage (950km/wk). I got 90K out of the tyres. I just changed the tyres today to.a Pirelli Scorpion Verde
Once you go michelin pilot sport you never go back. Even though you would only use it once in a while, you should make a name for canada. We spell it "tire" too. My local shop wanted $430 per tire for the pilot sport 4s. Tire rack had it for $218. Dont buy the cheapest tire. Find the cheapest seller.
Tire is a ring or band of rubber, either solid or hollow and inflated, or of metal, placed over the rim of a wheel to provide traction, resistance to wear, or other desirable properties. BTW, do they make your shirt for men or is it just for pussies like you.
Anunciado durante a Gamescom 2017, uma das maiores feiras de videogame do mundo, o remake de Secret of Mana é, desde o início, um projeto pensado para agradar aos fãs de longa data e atrair jogadores novatos com um gameplay mais acessível.
Não se engane: a versão 2018 de Secret of Mana está mais para uma recriação do que uma mera remasterização com pequeno ajustes gráficos. O que temos aqui é um jogo completamente atualizado, com personagens redesenhados que ganharam nova vida graças à estética cartunesca.
Se, por um lado, as mudanças visuais foram projetadas para atrair novatos, por outro, algumas pessoas podem torcer o nariz pela simplicidade da nova abordagem - especialmente no que diz respeito aos cenários e criaturas do mundo.
Os cenários coloridos, por exemplo, ainda que estejam bem representados, trazem pouca variedade e deixam game com cara de “jogo de celular”. Isso fica mais evidente pela estrutura do game, já que muitas áreas estão completamente vazias e monótonas. Nesse quesito, Secret of Mana não tem vantagem em ter o fator nostalgia a seu favor.
O remake utiliza a clássica perspectiva de visão aérea, com a câmera posicionada acima dos personagens. É possível arrastar as bordas da tela manualmente para ter uma visão mais ampla do ambiente, o que é bastante útil para momentos de exploração.
O brilho da era noventista, mas com ressalvas.
Antes de tudo, é importante ressaltar que não há legendas em português, então o melhor a fazer é jogar com textos em inglês. A história continua sendo o ponto mais alto de Secret of Mana e, novamente, coloca o jogador no controle de três adoráveis personagens: Randi, Primm e Popoi - é possível jogar em modo cooperativo local para até três usuários.
O objetivo do grupo é lutar contra um império traidor ao mesmo tempo em que tenta recuperar o poder da Mana para restaurar a paz. O grande problema é que, embora os gráficos estejam atualizados, as animações ficaram presas ao passado. Em vez de despertar o sentimento de nostalgia, a falta de capricho passa a impressão de que o remake foi feito às pressas.
A jogabilidade à la Zelda foi aprimorada e permite desferir ataques de qualquer ângulo. Os inimigos também demonstram mais inteligência, uma vez que agora eles têm a opção de atacar a partir de qualquer ponto do cenário.
Ainda que a movimentação esteja mais fluida, parece haver algum problema técnico relacionado ao impacto dos golpes. Isso porque há momentos em que o personagem simplesmente não acerta o ataque, mesmo posicionado a uma distância razoável do oponente.
Além disso, a interface dos menus ficou bem aquém do esperado, com abas confusas e muito mal posicionadas. Há, no entanto, uma opção de mapear os itens essenciais nos botões do joystick ou teclado, o que facilita muito a organização na hora de combates mais exigentes.
O remake de Secret of Mana mantém a essência da pérola dos RPGs de ação dos anos 90, mas comete muitos deslizes ao tentar mexer em time que está ganhando. Menus engessados, sistema de combate com problemas técnicos e animações presas ao passado impedem o relançamento de ser a experiência definitiva, apesar de que possa valer para quem nunca experimentou o jogo original.