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Making The Renaissance Scarlet Dress - Entire Process

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This is the full process video of me making The Renaissance Scarlet Dress. Like all my creations it was designed, drafted and sewn by me, I created the patterns myself and the dress was almost entirely hand sewn. Oana Heller helped me by hemming some parts at the sewing machine, and she's also the model wearing the dress. She created the headdress she's wearing which was 100% hand made and hand sewn by her. You can find the dress here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/500540744/renaissance-dress-couture-gown-fantasy?ref=shop_home_feat_1 And the headdress here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/514039471/flower-crown-roses-crown-headdress?ref=shop_home_feat_2 I will probably split this video in more shorter videos detailing the process of some of these steps, such as how to pleat, how to make smocking, how to make beaded smocking, etc. The video quality isn't great because I filmed much of the process at night, because I'm a night owl, and the lighting in my room isn't the best. I hope my videos will improve in the future because I plan on making more of them! Please follow me if you like my creations! Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/MariaHellerDesigns Tumblr: http://crafts-chicks-and-cats.tumblr.com/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/om.heller/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MariaHellerDesigns Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oanaandmariaheller Audio credits: Almost in F - Tranquillity by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100394 Artist: http://incompetech.com/
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Text Comments (74)
Jane Doe (19 days ago)
Thank you for taking the trouble to film the whole process. The dress is gorgeous, and your cat is adorable!
Lauren Puskas (4 months ago)
Beautiful! Where did you find that panelled fabric you used for the bodice?
Kianah Saro (4 months ago)
This is the first video of yours I've seen, but I'm sure it won't be my last! My anxiety makes it IMPOSSIBLE to use a machine to make anything, but I've been wanting to make my own clothes and costumes for awhile now. It's been so discouraging to try to search for tips and tutorials, because everything is for the machine, so finding you make this entirely by hand is so wonderful! Could I do it with my skill level: No. But it's something I can aspire to, and it's so nice to have found someone that shows me what hand sewing can do, and that I can point out to the people who insist that I "just learn how to use a damn machine already". Thank you!
Brenda Irving (5 months ago)
WOW Maria this dress is a masterpiece...Absolutely stunning the tips of your fingers must be like iron all that hand sewing such a beautiful dress
S Whye (6 months ago)
Absolutely love.. you are gifted
Immortal Love (7 months ago)
OneWay Designs238 (8 months ago)
You have such a cute for baby!!!
ACC JEG (8 months ago)
HERMOSO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. DESDE ISRAEL.
Monique Neuenschwander (8 months ago)
That was absolutely incredible to watch... I don't think I have the time to do it ... kudos
Noneofya Business (9 months ago)
While I struggle to sew on a button without too much collateral damage, this completely batshits insane woman just sewed a renaissance style gown - ENTIRELY. BY. HAND. R E S P E C T, Ms. Heller. You deserve a big vat full of it! I wish I had just a thimble of your skill and patience.
Hen Sojen (9 months ago)
Sylvie Vicenza (10 months ago)
TRES beau costume, bravo
perfectprefect15 (10 months ago)
Im so jealous of how you pleat, mine never come out that even
MY-CHELLE (11 months ago)
one can see that you did it with lots of love ❤️❤️well done 👏🏾👏🏾wearing something one has created is so nice especially when you get comments from others 😘👍🏾🤝
RM Smith (1 year ago)
That is absolutely beautiful. Well done!
Aixa Sherin (1 year ago)
Wow just wow! I very rarely post comments but this video deserves two!!🌹💐😍🧚‍♀️
Aixa Sherin (1 year ago)
Well done!!!
ayaka furawazu (1 year ago)
You did an amazing job! Love it 😍
Jamie Meredith (1 year ago)
Amazing! Please make more videos!
Susan H. (1 year ago)
Beautiful dress. :)
ulku yaldaz (1 year ago)
Harika, teşekkürler video için, thanks for sharing, Your cat's one eye is blind? So lovely cat:)
Janice K (1 year ago)
I believe it took 200 hours! Incredible job, beautifully finished. Congratulations
planetjazzy (1 year ago)
Absolute perfection
Nicole Thijs (1 year ago)
You do all that hand sewing to stay authentic as much as possible and then sew a zipper in?
Anna B. (1 year ago)
The perfect example of a stupid comment... Why NOT sew a zipper in even if they WERE trying to be authentic? It's just so much more practical than all the pins they used to use to hold their dresses together. Not to mention it's easier to get in and out of.
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
Nicole Thijs I don't understand the problem you have with zippers. I would sew it at the sewing machine if I had an industrial sewing machine that can take on such thick fabric and pleats, but I don't. So sewing everything by hand is the only option. Adding a simple and practical closing system that doesn't require a maid to dress you up is a choice I stand by. Given that my dresses are custom made on the exact measurements of the buyer, the dress doesn't need to be adjustable so the zipper is the perfect closing system.
amg2u (1 year ago)
Lovely work, Maria! I particularly enjoyed watching the pearl smocking detail come together. And your Hello Kitty sweater :). So meticulous yet relaxed, and even peaceful in how you work. Thank you!
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
amg2u Thank you! 💙
littlevintagemary (1 year ago)
thank you for this! amazing work <3
justrosier (1 year ago)
Very impressive! I found this incredibly soothing to watch.
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
justrosier Thank you! 💖
Can anybody say costumer goals?
andré rasemont (1 year ago)
Félicitation pour tes beaux et longs cheveux, attention au coiffeur, danger!!!!
andré rasemont (1 year ago)
Chapeau ma belle!!! je ne suis pas du métier, mais en amateur, 'ai essayé d'imiter cette discipline, pour faire des robes genre renaissance à ma bien aimée (cancer). Merci pour la leçon, bien qu'à présent je n'ai plus ma poupée pour exercer. Fort belle vidéo, très instructive..... Merci.
TheIrishKing (1 year ago)
This is amazing! I cant imagine spending 200hrs hand sewing something, great work!!
Fangs4DaMemories (1 year ago)
Nice fantasy dress... I wouldn't call it a Renaissance dress.
Chris Marquis (2 months ago)
Dommage que cava quend acselerer et pas une explication et surtout en plusieurs langue donc français
Anna B. (1 year ago)
Why not? Other than a few inaccuracies and a bit of mix and match from different eras / cultures (not exactly unheard of, really)... It very much is a Renaissance reproduction of sorts- and it's certainly more accurate than the first Kirtle I ever made myself; It'd definitely be passable at any sort of faire or SCA event, at the very least... And really, where the hell else are you going to wear such a thing?
Monie Bryan (1 year ago)
Okay so I have to ask, why do you feel this is a "Renaissance" gown? Did you do any research? It is a gown, but not really renaissance, I do love how it came out, it is a very pretty gown and you rock it, but.... So here is a video, not mine a lady I know of who is also doing a Red Gown, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rpin0IEUZiQ
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
Anna B. Well since she edited the comment it now sounds very polite. How convenient! And this wasn't her only comment on this video. I can recognise when I'm being attacked, thank you.
Anna B. (1 year ago)
She never once attacked you. She simply critiqued the inaccuracies in various portions of it and raised questions based on a relatively reasonable assumption that you were attempting a period accurate gown... And while it's a very pretty dress and I think you did a wonderful job with it? I agree with her and noticed those exact same problems with it. People are allowed to take issue with historical inaccuracies in something claiming (by the title) to be a period specific garment but which has clear inaccuracies- which the creator makes no attempt to distinguish as being, specifically, a modern reproduction or interpretation (even if it's painfully obvious in the footage). Furthermore, they're allowed to respectfully take those issues without it being "attacking you" by default. From one seamstress and artist to another: Critique is going to happen. People are going to take issue with your work for one reason or another. Learn to distinguish legitimate critique and questions (even if poorly worded or conveyed) from actual baseless attacks and you will go much further in life and business- and save your own sanity, to boot.
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
You have nothing better to do with your time than to attack people for doing what they love? I never claimed this is a historically accurate costume. I never intended it to be so. It's a renaissance inspired dress. It's meant to look renaissance but not be renaissance in construction - otherwise I would have created all the appropriate undergarments and detachable parts. This is meant to be just one dress (one layer). It is absolutely obvious it's not meant to be a historically accurate garment since it closes with a zipper at the back. Or you assumed that I thought they had zippers in renaissance times? I wanted it to be practical in construction, easy to put on - hence the zipper and the lack of detachable parts and the lack of undergarments. I could have made it historically accurate if I wanted to - I just chose not to. Because of practical reasons. I'm curious what made you jump to the conclusion that it's ignorance or lack of knowledge on my part that made me make the dress this way when it's so obvious I intended to add my own creative touch to it quite on purpose.
Monie Bryan (1 year ago)
In her etsy site and on Facebook, she claims it is a Renaissance Gown. This is why I asked the question, it now says Historical and Fantasy so I guess that makes it okay
Monie Bryan (1 year ago)
Also? This Gown has Germanic Smocked frontlet, but more importantly no Camica or undergown, her sleeves would have connected, not separating to show her actual arm. Also if she wanted to keep her lovely puff sleeve, it would have been better to build an inset to have the sleeve supported within. So this gown is a lot of different things thrown together, a mishmash if you will. Since she hopes to get customers because she has an Etsy site, it would be better if her things were more historically based, not just something thrown together, also polyester lining is horrid to work with an wear! All in all it is a lovely gown, but it could be better. Oh! the use of a grid helper to make smocking is awesome, I have friends who own pleat makers and I can't wait to she them how to did hers! So that is a huge awesome!
Meghan Dixon (1 year ago)
WOW! A few questions. First, did you do anything at all on a machine? Second, what thread did you use (handstitching or universal)? Did you use a thread conditioner with it?
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
I did sew the bottom hem at the sewing machine - I think that's the only part. And I used normal sewing thread.
Monie Bryan (1 year ago)
So what country are you aiming at? It looks like a mix of all sorts of times??
WakeupGrandOwl (1 year ago)
Looks not to be historically accurate per say, but historical fantasy - perfectly valid option. A personal design.
Maggie Sue (1 year ago)
I agree with the 'by hand' comments! But you did it the way it would have been done back in the day. Very impressive - please do more!!!
Alexis Kron (1 year ago)
would you sell your pattern?
Alexis Kron (1 year ago)
Maria Heller I love your design it's vary beautiful! Great job!
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
Alexis Kron I never studied pattern making and as a result I didn't create a standard size pattern - so I wouldn't sell it.
Stella Papazova (1 year ago)
Lovely! What exactly did you use for the button's loops? Is this a ribbon?
Annette Murphy (1 year ago)
This is indeed a work of art.
Annette Murphy (1 year ago)
Well done Stella. You are increadibly talented. Not to mention patient.
Annette Murphy (1 year ago)
What skill and craftmanship has gone into this labour of love. How could anyone dislike this excellent YouTube video.
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
Yes, I do. Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MariaHellerDesigns Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/maria.heller.designs Tumblr: http://crafts-chicks-and-cats.tumblr.com/ Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/MariaHellerDesigns
Stella Papazova (1 year ago)
oh yes, your work is impressive. Do you have any blogs/sites then?
Jennifer Sweger (1 year ago)
Stunning! You did such an amazing job sewing it all by hand.
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
Jennifer Sweger Thank you very much!
Oh, I love it. What a gorgous gown and the colour is so stunning. I admire your patience. It is so impressive to see you doing this all by hand.
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
I didn't use anything, the fabric was thick, so I didn't need to stiffen it. But if your fabric is not so thick you could use another thicker layer of fabric in between the dress and the lining, or you could sew in some polyester boning.
Maria Heller hi Maria! How did you stiffen the bodice? I'm working on the same style of gown, what did you use?
Maria Heller Designs (1 year ago)
Thank you very much!
kat forky (2 years ago)
Oh My Gosh! What fantastic work you do and all by hand.Your attention to detail goes far beyond most dresses I have ever seen.Such good work,it just blows me aways. I make Renaissance & Civil War Era Headdress all by hand so I can appreciate all the handwork you have done.. Blessings to you and your business.. Thank you for sharing this video.
Maria Heller Designs (2 years ago)
Thank you very much for taking the time to tell me all this, I truly appreciate it and I'm very glad you like my work!
Sofialpaca (2 years ago)
Gorgeous! But I would never have that holy patience of sewing each of these beads... Totally worth it though!
Maria Heller Designs (2 years ago)
Thank you!

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