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How I wash my mountain bikes
 
02:16
While usually my bikes are covered in mud, right now there's dust in every nook and cranny. Bike cleaning is a somewhat hotly contested topic, and many people have passionate reasons why certain bike cleaning methods are or aren't okay. The truth is though that there's not a whole lot that can hurt a mountain bike short of submerging it in water. I hose off my bikes after every trail ride, so usually the big stuff never gets a chance to dry up and cake on. As needed, I'll do a slightly deeper cleaning to get to the stuff I missed during post ride hose offs. This is what we'll be covering today. The first thing you should know is that spraying your bike with water won’t hurt it. What can hurt your bike is high pressure water which can actually force dirt into moving parts like bearings. To avoid this, I keep my hose on a medium spray, and take care not to blast the ends of the hubs, the bottom bracket, or anywhere else with a bearing seal. Everything else gets blasted. To loosen up grime in the cassette, I use a little WD-40 and a brush. This is the same way I clean my chain and the pulleys on my derailleur. You could use Simple Green, or any other degreaser for this purpose, but just remember that these are all solvents. Solvents remove grease and oil from your bike. WD-40 is sometimes mistaken for a lubricant, but it’s not. WD-40 is a solvent, and it’s great for cleaning. As for this brush I'm using, it's okay, but I used to use a dollar store toilet brush, and in some ways it was actually better. The long bristles you’ll find on a toilet brush can really get all up in that cassette. The rest of my bike gets cleaned with a rag and dish soap. Not very high tech, but it gets the job done. You might also notice that between these two mountain bikes there's only one front wheel. So yeah, that's one less thing I need to clean today. While drying your bike with a towel helps prevent water spots, I just drop them from a couple of feet up to shake them off. You could also ride your bike dry. To me, bike cleaning is more for maintenance purposes than it is for cosmetics so I'm not concerned with them being showroom clean. After all, mountain bikes look better when they're dirty anyway.
Views: 1008342 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to Bunnyhop a MTB - a tutorial
 
03:57
In mountain biking, the act of hopping one’s bike is called a bunnyhop. The particular technique shown here is known is an American bunnyhop, but to me hopping is hopping. Learning to hop or learning to hop higher may be one of your priorities. It allows you to more easily get over obstacles, change the orientation of your bike, go higher on jumps, and most importantly have more fun. So today we’ll revisit the bunnyhop with a fresh explanation. First of all, your bike doesn’t matter much. Full suspension, full rigid, hardtail, flat pedals, clipless pedals, they’re all fine. I’ve done my highest hops on on hardtails with flat pedals, but as you can see Brian is doing it clipped in on a full squish. This is me last summer, bunnyhopping a 60 pound Walmart bike with water in the tires. So as far as learning goes, any mountain bike is just fine. No matter what bike you have, go ahead and drop your seat as low as it can go. This will give you more room to maneuver your bike while learning. To bunnyhop, you need to jump yourself into the air and take your bike with you. You weigh a lot more than your bike, so think of it as a passenger. So if you can’t do this, then it’s going to be even harder while holding your bike. Make sense? Now on to the technique. The first step is to practice getting into the meerkat position. That is, standing straight up with your bars at your waist. For starters you can just try getting your front wheel off the ground. A lot of people have trouble with this part in particular, and it usually comes down to the preload. By this, I mean forcing your weight downwards before you pop up. If your bike has suspension it’ll compress, and you should pop back up in sync with it. And remember, it’s you that’s popping up and your bike that’s coming along with you. Don’t do this. Do this. Once you get the hang of that, you can go full meerkat by snapping your bars to your waist. Okay so preload, meerkat position, what now? Well, now all you have to do is lunge forwards. It’s really that simple. Of course this will only get you so high, but you now have the tools to go higher. While going meerkat you should be jumping straight upwards. See? Jump up, snap your bars to your waist, and continue to jump upwards. If you do it with enough force, your bike can come along for the ride. Don’t worry about your pedals, don’t worry about what kind of bike you have, just meerkat. Learning to bunny hop takes practice, and then you need to learn to time it. As you approach an obstacle you need to know when to start pulling up so you won’t case it. I recommend practicing with some sticks or branches to keep the stakes low. After a while, you’ll get it. I hope you found this tutorial helpful, or at least entertaining. If you still have questions, check the playlist below for different approaches and explanations I’ve done. If you have any bunny hop tips, share them below so we can all learn. Thanks for riding with me today and I’ll see you next time. Skills Playlist https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUQlyhadPdo&list=PL5S7V5NhM8JSXwC8Jwdt019NCS6tfuEhP Brian's Channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3DFdy_qc-cqgKCyQTHLGzA Alexander's Channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfUGBBnxQYezwJM9wi3F-Lg
Views: 1011803 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to bail a MTB - A crash course
 
04:01
In street BMX, messing up and crashing is just a part of the game. As a teenager riding street, I may have fallen more times in one afternoon than a normal cyclist does in their lifetime. Old habits die hard, and many of you have remarked about my ability to walk away from nasty looking crashes. While the art of falling isn’t so easy to teach, I’ve drawn up some guidelines to help you. Whether you ride a mountain bike, BMX, or even a road bike, these 5 tips should help you escape disaster. Tip number 1. Know that you can always improve your predicament Even if you can’t save yourself outright, you can usually find a way to get less hurt. When you’re crashing, time slows down, and you can use it wisely. As you’re crashing, you need exercise whatever sliver of control you still have over the situation to minimize your injuries. Maybe this seems obvious, but keep it in mind and internalize it. The next time you’re going down in flames, act quick and be decisive. Tip number 2. Totally disregard your bike We all love our bikes, but they can always be repaired or replaced. Even if you make minimum wage, a new wheel or set of handlebars will likely cost less than your medical bills, especially here in the US. Also, what good is your bike if you’re injured for the rest of the riding season? You can’t put a price on that. So, when you’re crashing, put yourself first. After all the demonstrations in this video, my bike just needs to be hosed off. Tip number 3. Practice dismounting in a hurry If you’re clipped in, your feet should always come off before you let go of your bars, so hold on and try to jump off the bike quickly without getting hung up. Whether or not you hold on to your bike after that will depend on the scenario. If you’re riding flat pedals, it’s not so important to get your feet off first, so you can actually jump off in one step. Although you may not want to practice ghost riding your bike, getting good at quickly dismounting can save you big time. Tip Number 4. If you’re going OTB, do it feet first Yes, it’s possible to go over the bars and totally escape injury, that is if you can get them under your feet. This makes it possible to land feet first, or into a controlled tumble. While this might not be easy to practice, you can at least get comfortable with the motion by finding a horizontal bar to jump over. By holding on while getting your feet over, you can attempt to commit this to memory. This maneuver is particularly hard to do while clipped in. The only advice I can offer is to try and twist your feet while you toss your bars. Tip Number 5. When you hit the ground, Tuck and Roll If and when you make an emergency dismount, you’ll usually be traveling at speed. Sometimes it’s possible to run out of a dismount, but not always. The best way to minimize your injury is to tuck and roll. To do this, put your head down and loosely tuck with all of your appendages, letting yourself tumble to a stop. You don’t want to tumble head over heels though. Instead, try to do more of a barrel roll and keep your feet near the ground. This also lets you regain control of the situation at the soonest opportunity. Also keep in mind that staying rigid and trying to break your fall can lead to the worst injuries. It’s better to cooperate with physics and roll out of it. So now that you know these 5 tips, how can you get better at bailing out of a crash? Will these tips really help you when you’re hurdling through the air? Over the short term, no, but through experience crashing can actually be something you can get better at. When I think back to all of the injuries I’ve suffered, I wonder how much worse they could have been had I frozen up and did nothing. Have any bailing tips of your own? Share them below. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 914568 Seth's Bike Hacks
Clips Vs. Flats on Slickrock's Toughest Climb
 
05:09
Like me, Alex has platform pedals, and he just can't keep his spin going on this steep climb. He pushes his way up, and then gets caught mid pedal stroke somewhere along the way. Brian sits atop the hill with a smug clipless grin. Despite the fact that he finds amusement in seeing Alex suffer, he takes a moment to save him from falling off a cliff. Both Brian and Randall cleaned this steep climb on Slickrock trail. Aside from being good riders, they’re both clipped in. This is definitely the preferred setup for climbing. Among the many benefits of riding clipless is the ability to pull up on your pedals in addition to pushing down, maintaining power transfer through your entire pedal stroke. Side note for the newbs, clipless refers to being clipped in. I know it’s confusing. As someone who runs platform pedals most of the time, I still can’t argue with the benefits of clipless. After adjusting such a setup, your shoes will always remain in the perfect position while riding. It’s also nice that on really bumpy terrain clipless pedals keep your feet where they’re supposed to be. So they’re secure, functional, and efficient. Of course, platform pedals are not without their benefits either. Anyone who wants to throw some tricks into their riding should consider platform pedals, and if you take a lot of risks they may improve your chances of survival. For me, that’s the main selling point. Consider what could have happened to me here, or here if I couldn’t unclip on time. Add that to the fact that they’re better for jumping around, and platform pedals are definitely for me. Still, I’m making tradeoffs in other areas. Brian is scheming. As Alexander catches his breath, Brian runs down the hill to execute the ultimate one upper—showing up Alex on his own bike. So, let me get this straight; the rider wearing SPD shoes is going to do this climb on platform pedals? You can see Brian using his heels to avoid slipping on his cleats. It’s ironic that the clipless rider actually proved the climb could be done on platforms. I do think riding clipless can teach you how to spin better, and spinning is what you should be doing, not mashing. You can see how Brian keeps the pedals moving fluidly throughout the climb. Alex could take no more. With fire in his eyes, Alex set out to put this climb behind him. He finally cleaned it. It’s clear to see how with proper technique you can, in fact climb just about anything on platform pedals, and it doesn’t always take 35 tries. I did this climb first try on platform pedals, although I took a slightly different line. Another rider on the trail, Sarah, did it head on as her friends cheered. We then saw quite a few other riders owning this climb on platforms. I think every rider should try platform and clipless setups in that order. Each pedal type teaches you something different, and they both come in handy for different types of riding. Since pedals are so easy to change, they can be swapped before rides. Look at these pedal types not as opposing sides, but different weapons in your mountain biking arsenal. For the rest of the day, Alex nailed every climb he encountered. It was a matter of spinning, and technique, not pedals and shoes. Alex didn’t blame his failure on gear—that would have been a cop out. Instead he took responsibility for botching this climb and committed to making it right. Having cleaned it, he became a better rider on the spot, and that my friends, is what mountain biking dreams are made of. Subscribe to Brian's Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3DFdy_qc-cqgKCyQTHLGzA Subscribe to Alexander's Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfUGBBnxQYezwJM9wi3F-Lg
Views: 1674193 Seth's Bike Hacks
Whistler Revisited | Have I improved since last year?
 
06:37
Last year I visited Whistler Blackcomb and rode lift access downhill for the first time. There was no tech trail I could not clean, but with my lack of experience in riding big jumps, I couldn't even get through a single black diamond jump trail. Exactly one year later with a host of experiences under my belt, I visit Whistler again for round two. Crabapple Hits https://youtu.be/cJ-Gp8YfgoY?t=8m20s https://youtu.be/kmuhG-5s-wE This trip to Whistler was for the purpose of filming my Dirt Diaries entry, due to be screened at Crankworx 2018 https://www.crankworx.com/event/dirt-diaries/ Thanks to my sponsors for making this trip possible Diamondback Bicycles Box Components Slime Sealant #mountainbiking #mtb #whistler
Views: 671186 Seth's Bike Hacks
2 Minutes of my Worst Riding
 
02:06
This week, I’m away on vacation, but I’ll be back with a vengeance by mid July with lots of new videos and topics to cover. In the meantime, here’s a little something to hold you over; a compilation of the worst riding I’ve done over the past year. Thanks for riding with me, and I’ll see you when I get back.
Views: 759691 Seth's Bike Hacks
Riding Street on a Full Suspension MTB
 
04:04
"Riding street" is the term used to describe any kind of off-trail riding. For example: practicing wheelies at your local park, or launching off a little bump somewhere. When I intend on riding street, I leave my house with a hardtail. Hardtails are great for hopping, and navigating technical obstacles, so they’re better than full suspension bikes when it comes to street riding, or are they? I guess it all depends on what you plan on doing. I have an errand to run across town, so I'm going to bring out my monster 6 inch all mountain bike and get into some trouble. First of all, getting around town is easier on a road bike, period. Pedaling anything with suspension is more work, as if the knobby tires weren’t bad enough. Still, mountain bikers are used to pedaling their bikes, and most could ride a full suspension around town all day. To me it didn’t feel like a big deal, even when holding a decent pace. While you could just lock out the suspension, this is only good for long stretches of road. The whole point of taking your mountain bike street riding, is to jump stuff. When it comes to sudden movements, the the full suspension is tough to handle. I started off my ride treating it like a hardtail, and although I made it work, I felt hindered. Bunnyhopping in particular is pretty tough. On a positive note, it seems like full suspension bikes are more forgiving when you land nose heavy. I know that sounds weird considering your suspension fork would have more to do with that, but it feels smoother when your back end comes crashing down. Hopping up this thing and bumping the handle at the end was kind of tough to pull off since it required two quick moves in succession. For anything BMX or trials influenced, the squishiness is a negative. It’s hard to be accurate when everything is delayed by a fraction of a second. But we're talking about highly precise movements. What happens if we go big? Now we're talking. It seems like the key to riding street on a full suspension bike is going big. Big drops, big gaps, big jumps. My bike feels like a 747 in the air, and when landing. This revelation got me into trouble a couple of times. This bumpy muddy trench might be out of the question on a BMX, and even on a hardtail it would suck up your speed. Not today. I had more than enough speed for this wallride even with a 7 pound hydration pack. All that travel was fueling my confidence, and that’s when the old me started to rear his ugly head. This looks rideable, right? I decided not to try that again. On a hardtail I may have gotten more speed. I may have hopped higher and cleared the gap. Or, it could have ended a lot worse. Surprisingly I didn’t get hurt at all, which speaks to how forgiving full suspension bikes are. After that canal gap, I took it pretty easy for the rest of the day. Today was the first time I really went out and challenged myself in the street on a full suspension bike. Although I still maintain that it’s not as good as a hardtail for most things, it’s definitely better for going big. To land in the street is to land hard, and although people land way harder on rigid BMX bikes, it seems like the gaps and drops I could do on this thing are limitless. People have mixed feelings about street riding in general. Is there really any way to do it respectfully? That’s a conversation for another day. For now, I think we’ve only reinforced what hardtails and full suspension bikes are best for, so we’ll leave it at that. Do any of you guys ride street on mountain bikes? What style do you prefer? Thanks for riding with me today and I’ll see you next time. Stickers and shirts! https://www.sethsbikehacks.com/product-category/store/
Views: 1054970 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to manual a MTB for beginners
 
01:39
Manuals are a very important bike skill because they can set you up for so many different things, like bunny hopping, for instance. To get into a manual, bend down on to your handlebars and pop up with your arms straight out. If you look down, you’ll stay down, so look directly ahead with your eyes. Shift your body weight back as far as possible, and stay low down. If you think of a bike like a seesaw, you’ll need to think of the rear wheel as the middle part. To put more weight behind the rear wheel, you’ll need to really commit. For new riders, this can be a bit scary, so the front wheel ends up popping up a couple of inches and never really comes all the way back. If you’re having this problem, you’re going to need to practice deliberately falling off the back of the bike to overcome your fear. If you’re riding platform pedals while learning, you can always hop off the back if you pull up too far. Once you learn that, there’s nothing to be afraid of. Once you get your front wheel up, bend your knees. Bending them more makes the front wheel go down, and extending your legs brings the front wheel up. By bending and extending you can keep yourself balanced. once you nail this technique, you can extend your legs quickly and push your bars forwards to hop. This can help you hop on to something and even keep manualling. There’s a whole world of impressive combo’s you can try while shredding the trails, or just dicking around in the street. Thanks for watching, and leave any questions you have in the comments for me, and other YouTubers to answer. Thanks for watching, and we’ll see you next time.
Views: 607314 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to MTB in the street
 
02:12
After two weeks of rainy weather, the mountain bike trails are closed for maintenance. When trails aren’t an option, you can always find stuff to ride around town, this is usually referred to as riding street. Riding street can be really fun, and it forces you to be creative and inventive with your surroundings. If your bike is set up for the trails, just pumping up the tires a little more makes it fine for street. I also stiffen up my suspension a bit by adding air, but this isn’t required. Start by picking a spot, be it a curb, or a little bump in the pavement. Ride the same spot for a while, and it’s called a session. Sessioning forces you to squeeze every possibility out of your surroundings. After a while you’ll start to consider everything in town to be a potential spot for a session. The more techniques you have in your street riding toolbox, the easier it is to be creative. Bunny hops, endos, fakies, and 180s are all super useful, but it doesn’t stop there. Here we’re bombing this hill but starting off with an endo. Putting these two techniques gives you a combo. Let’s call it an “endo-dive”. Embankments can be really fun spots to session, and here you can practice a 180 turn. Start by manualling at the top of the bank, and then add a hop at the end. Make sure you’re looking in the direction you want to go, which should be over your shoulder. With a little practice, you can get more of the spin to actually be in the air. I’m not sure how useful this is on the trails, but it sure is fun. The more experience you have on street obstacles, the more fun you can have. I sweat my balls off sessioning this picnic table today. Who says you need trails to get a workout? Practicing the same technique over and over until you get it can be a emotional roller coaster. The more time you invest, the more pissed off you get when you just can’t get it. But when you finally stick your landing, it’s all worth it. Street sessions with friends are some of my fondest memories. Although I usually ride street alone nowadays, I get to share my sessions with you guys. So thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 920500 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to do drops on a mountain bike
 
02:31
This video is about riding off drops on your mountain bike. Riding off of stuff is a key skill for any mountain biker. Here, I show you how to ride off big stuff by landing level, or real wheel first. Riding street can help you learn the basics of these skills, as curbs, ledges, and loading docks are on a gradual scale of increasing difficulty. First learn to get your front wheel off the ground for a full second or two. Then try jumping off of a curb, landing level or rear wheel first. You'll quickly learn to stay in complete control when going off of curbs, rather than getting bucked around. Move on to higher curbs, and then ledges. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to do drops many times taller than your actual bike. Adjusting your pitch is key. This is why repeated practice on small drops is important. Once you have control of your pitch, you will always be able to land on both your wheels, instead of on your head or face.
Views: 378192 Seth's Bike Hacks
Mountain Biking Explained - EP1
 
05:11
All gear in this video: https://www.sethsbikehacks.com/mountain-biking-explained/ Next Video: https://youtu.be/X6J5WwllX1k?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JQoi8vhELX-9aYHmRtmCveT Any outdoor activity can be really fulfilling, but my activity of choice is mountain biking. A mountain bike can quickly cover any terrain, and take you amazing places inaccessible by many other vehicles. Plus, mountain biking is a great way to get in shape, push yourself, and even make lifelong friends. The vast majority of mountain bikers went on their first ride with a friend, parent, or coworker who was already experienced. When your experienced friend takes you out on the trails, they can fix your mechanical problems, warn you about obstacles ahead, and even tell you when to shift gears. The thing is, not everyone has that guidance. Meet Lisa. She’s not an actress and she’s never been mountain biking before, but she wants to learn. Follow along with Lisa as she learns how to ride, how to find trails, and how to perform basic maintenance on her bike. She’ll go through everything you will, and probably have a lot of the same questions. She’s going to have a lot of fun, and probably make a lot of friends, but she sure as hell won’t be doing it on this bike. This is a hybrid, or comfort bike. Surprisingly, it’s sometimes mistaken for a mountain bike. The shocks, the gears, and the fat tires make it look like it’s designed for riding off road, but this sticker states otherwise. So we’ll need to max out Lisa’s credit card and get her set up for the trails. First she’ll need a bike, a helmet, and some gloves. She’ll also need a floor pump with a gauge, as tire pressure is really important in mountain biking. She’ll also need a hydration backpack, which holds lots of water, and other stuff like her cell phone, supplies, and car keys. Speaking of car keys, Lisa will need a bike rack, unless she’s okay with putting a filthy muddy bike in her back seat. I’d also recommend a multitool. Altogether, this will cost around $1000, but that’s just a guide. You may already have some of this stuff, and often times you can find it used. Over the course of a year, many people spend over $1000 on coffee, and definitely more than that on ordering in lunch. Do the math. Chances are you could make your own coffee, pack your lunch, or scale back on something else to make room for mountain biking. With the right beginner gear, Lisa has the headroom she needs to grow and improve without being limited. She has a bike that can be easily maintained, repaired, and upgraded, and gear that will last her many many rides. In the upcoming videos we’ll go over all this stuff, where to get it, and how to use it. Now that she’s all set up I’m thinking we should shock Lisa’s system with a ride on Porcupine Rim, a 3000 foot descent along the edge of a mountain, followed by a bone jarring ride across miles of Jeep road. Then, a blistering descent along a big friggin cliff…or we could start on some dirt paths and teach Lisa the basics first. That’s the safest way to start mountain biking; getting used to your bike before you try anything crazy. Lisa is riding through a beginner trail, which is usually just a dirt path with some loose terrain. This isn’t much different from riding in the street, but it does get you used to riding in narrow spaces with tight turns. To find mountain bike trails there are apps, and websites that show listings by area. This listing on singletracks.com shows the difficulty level of these trails. Green dots are for beginners. Before we start turning Lisa into a mountain biker she’ll need to know some terminology. We’ll do a little of this in every video, but first we’ll start with the most basic terms you’ll hear the most. This is a hardtail, or a mountain bike with front suspension. Some bikes also have suspension in the rear. These are called “Full suspension mountain bikes”. Full suspension, hardtail. Most beginners get hardtails because they’re less costly and easier to maintain. This is singletrack, or a narrow trail designed for one rider at a time. Most mountain bike trails are singletrack, so you’ll hear this term a lot. It usually just means a trail. This is a trailhead, or the entrance to a trail system. This is where you’ll park your car, get set up, and meet with your riding buddies. So before Lisa goes to the trailhead to ride some singletrack on her hardtail, she’ll need to learn how to use all this gear, install a bike rack, and master a few techniques that make riding singletrack different from riding pavement. If you’re an experienced mountain biker who follows this channel, now’s the time to get your friends started by turning them on to this series. We’ll still be doing the normal stuff in between, but every couple of weeks I’ll be releasing another episode with lessons for beginners. Try to be helpful and answer questions in the comment section.
Views: 558726 Seth's Bike Hacks
Are Walmart mountain bikes safe?
 
02:51
Next Video: https://youtu.be/m3vI2bYhCrk?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JSRoe6ovF2fifd5L7BsyLRF I’ve been getting a lot of questions about department store bikes. These bikes are readily available at places like Walmart for as little as $100. Can a bike that cheap really be ridden on the trails? Is it fine for a beginner? What about bunnyhops, manuals, and other techniques? How much of that can one of these bikes take? Well, there's only one way to find out. In the name of science, I picked up this mongoose at Walmart. It's a full suspension, 21 speed mountain bike with lots of bells and whistles––oh and it costs less than my dropper seat post. With Florida State Sales tax and a Dr. Pepper, I still paid less than $150. The first thing I did was put the bike up on the stand for a comprehensive safety check. Whoever assembled this bike either didn't know how, or didn't give a shit. I think it may have been a combination of both. The gears and brakes were ridiculously bad, but I already expected that. I didn't expect the bars to be out of alignment with the forks, or the wheels to be completely out of true. Also the steering was indexed, which means the headset was overtightened during assembly. I tried to fix this to no avail, so I left it tight with the best case scenario being that it breaks in. The spokes were like spaghetti, which leads to bent rims. I tightened every spoke on both wheels, and then did a standard truing to get everything dead straight. After I did my 2 hour tuneup I brought the bike down Elmo at two& for a professional opinion. He greased the mechanism in the quill stem, and dicked around with the gears and brakes. Thanks to Elmo, I might not die on this bike. The things I found wrong on this bike were pretty serious. Most of the issues would have quickly led to mechanical failure or even injury. For instance, without greasing the stem, the bars were easy to move independent of the front wheel. Maybe this isn't always the case, but I can only base my experience on this bike. So if you're buying a bike from a department store, don't ride it without a thorough safety check. A bike you get at a shop, on the other hand, will leave in perfect working order, and usually include a free tuneup after it breaks in. So, yeah, keep that in mind too. There are hidden costs to buying a department store bike. Overall, the bike is pretty impressive for $140. Everything works now, the suspension is….plush…and the saddle is actually pretty comfortable. The bike doesn’t even look that bad. I can’t wait to beat the shit out of it, but one thing at a time. In the next video, we’ll take my Mongoose to Amelia Earhart Mountain Bike Trails to see what it can do. Thanks for riding with me today and I’ll see you next time. If you have a department store bike, and need some ideas on keeping it maintained, here's the best resource you could possibly use: http://bigboxbikes.com Get a Mongoose Ledge Here: http://www.sethsbikehacks.com/product/mongoose-ledge/
Views: 1767937 Seth's Bike Hacks
Tubeless Conversion on Maxxis Holy Rollers
 
03:48
Here's the Bikemanforu Ghetto tubeless video: https://youtu.be/0MyRoTaAUqg In the last month, I’ve gotten quite a few frustrating pinch flats on my mountain bike. I could increase my tire pressure, but I’d rather just convert my bike to tubeless since the main benefit is no pinch flats. The last time I rode tubeless I crashed around a turn and ended up doing the walk of shame back to the trailhead. I took my anger out on tubeless setups in general, but the truth is that I probably could have been up and running again had I brought a CO2. So let’s give it another shot. Tonight, we’ll be doing a tubeless conversion on my Maxxis holy rollers, and standard non tubeless mountain bike wheelset. I want to be clear that I’m not trying to make a tutorial here, just a fun video. So, if you’ve been reading up on Stan’s no tubes, you might be saving up the 3 million dollars you’ll need for rim tape, wheel liners, valve stems, sealant, and injectors On the other hand If you’ve been watching Bikemanforu, you’re digging through the trash for an old inner tube and some broken glass. I like to stay somewhere in the middle of those two extremes. By the way, check out bikeman’s ghetto tubeless video if you haven’t already. My particular tire and rim combination has a real loose fit, so I’m using some liners with valves built in to get a tighter fit and a more reliable seal. Stan’s recommends that you drill out the inner wall of your non tubeless rim with a 3/8th bit, but I’ve found that this isn’t always crucial. I already did the rear wheel last night, so I know that we’ll need 3 full wraps of gorilla tape around the wheel, plus the rubber liner to get a tight seal. Building up the thickness of the original rim is a crucial step in most conversions, and it’s important to do it evenly and neatly for a good seal. If you can’t get your tire to seal, chances are you need to build up the rim more. If you’re a weight weenie you’ll be worried about adding grams of spinning weight with each wrap of tape, but I don’t like to use the G word. Right now, my main concern is stopping these pesky pinch flats. So, 3 full wraps of carefully measured gorilla tape later, and I’m ready to add the rim strip. A good amount of soapy water will help the rubber fall into place evenly. Some people claim they can do it without the soap, but I’m not a fan of going in dry. It’s important to make sure the rim strip is tucked under the lip of the rim all the way around, and that there are no spots where the liner is stretched or thinned out. Next, we’ll put the tube on and see if it can hold air. It would be a shame to have to take all this shit apart with the sealant in, so dry fitting it first will help you to determine how far off you are from a perfect seal. Not perfect, but I find that if it holds ANY air it’ll be fine once the sealant is in. If it holds not air at all then we’ll need to add more gorilla tape under the rim strip. So now that we’re ready to seal this up, we’ll unseat the tire at the bottom and add precisely 2 ounces of sealant…or yeah. Once the sealant is in there, we’ll toss the wheel around real good to coat the inside of the tire, and then it’s time to blast some air in. Now it’s been said that you should do this with a floor pump, because you need to know that the setup will be serviceable outside of a shop. But there’s something really satisfying about about blasting air in and watching the tire go foomt! So rather than cheat ourselves of that satisfying sound, I’ll use a CO2. And, success. This one sealed so well that actually there’s barely any sealant bubbling out. I’ll let the wheel sit for a few minutes in a bunch of different positions to get the sealant everywhere, but riding it is actually the best method of doing this. Actually, since we already have soapy water and a sponge, let’s do a bike wash just for the hell of it. Any decent mountain bike can be washed with dish soap and a sponge, and then rinsed lightly with a hose, as opposed to blasting dirt into your bearings with a pressure washer. So yeah, set your hose to spray, not jet. It’s been an hour and I don’t see any sealant bubbling out, so I’d say this was a productive night. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you next time. Sealant: http://amzn.to/1IYvSte Gorilla tape: http://amzn.to/1NlwF9x Valve stem (if you aren't using a liner): http://amzn.to/1NlwOd3 Full conversion kits: 29er: http://amzn.to/1IYwEpV 26": http://amzn.to/1RHut19 Universal: http://amzn.to/1IYxDqc
Views: 638988 Seth's Bike Hacks
5 mistakes newbs make when changing flats
 
03:03
For new mountain bikers, changing a flat can be a serious learning experience. Even after years of riding though, I see people making the same mistakes over and over. Let’s look at a few of the most common rookie mistakes, and how to avoid them. Most mountain bike wheels are held on with a quick release skewer. I can’t count how many times I’ve seen people tighten these like wrenches, completely disregarding the flipping action of the lever. Not only is this dangerous, but it’s also unnecessarily difficult. Here’s how you’re supposed to do it… Taking a wheel off is as simple as flipping the lever, and loosening the bolt on the opposite side just a little . Some bikes need more loosening than others and some barely need any at all. Reinstalling the wheel is easy too. Just get everything into place with the lever flipped outwards, and then tighten the bolt a bit. If the lever is too easy to flip, tighten the bolt more. If you need to break your hand off flipping the lever, the bolt is too tight and needs to be loosened. The lever should lock into place with moderate force using your palm. On the topic of taking wheels on and off, it seems like a lot of people have trouble with the rear wheel. Why this simple task can be so hard for some comes down to the intimidating mechanism we call a derailleur. Here’s a simple trick…. with your bike turned upside down, just pull the derailleur back from the main body, and pull the wheel out from in between the chain. Done. To get it back in, just pull the derailleur back, get the cassette between the chain, and mount the rear wheel again. It’s also helpful to shift to the highest, or smallest gear before starting this process. Changing flats is something many of us learned when we were kids, but some people have incredible difficulty getting the tire off, even with levers. Surprisingly, most people don’t really know how to use tire levers. Did you know that this hook at the end is actually designed for something? Yep, you can just hook it to a spoke and then have both hands free to use the other lever. For really stubborn tires this is a lifesaver. When putting a new tube in, always check the inside of the tire for thorns, sand, or other objects which could have caused the original flat. I see people just throw the new tube in without considering that there could still be a thorn in their tire. This is as good as not changing the flat at all, so always double check before you put everything back together. Last but not least, Before installing the new tube, put a little bit of air in it. I’ve seen people install twisted up, airless tubes, that look like pretzels. This can cause the tube to get inflated with the twists in it, and give you a bad time. Blow enough air in for the tube to hold its form, and you won’t have this problem. If you’ve made any of these mistakes yourself, it’s all a part of learning. If you’re a seasoned trail mechanic, I hope you had a laugh. In the end, it’s better for everyone to lend a hand and give some tips than to ride by laughing and pointing. Thanks for riding with me today, and I'll see you next time.
Views: 1268552 Seth's Bike Hacks
4 ways to climb stairs on a MTB
 
02:33
Sometimes you need to get up a staircase on your bike, so why not do it in style? If you ride cyclocross, you know how to hop off the bike, throw it over your shoulder, and run up the stairs. The key here is to make a smooth transition from jumping off the bike, to carrying it, and then mounting it again. Locking your arm upwards to support the bike on the top tube is the most common way, but you should elevate the front wheel so you don’t hit the stairs and faceplant. Thanks to cyclocross, running up the stairs is a legit technique. If you’re up for more of a challenge, you can ride up the stairs. This is easier said than done, but on small staircases you can just get up some speed and use your momentum. Just approach the staircase at a comfortable speed, pull back on the bars and shift your body weight to the back of your bike. This will take the weight off the front wheel as it rolls up the steps. As soon as your rear wheel comes close to the steps, transfer all of your weight to the front. Stay in a low gear and start pedaling at the top if you need to. The next method to climbing stairs is to hop up them sideways using an English bunnyhop. Practice on the ground first by pointing your toes forwards and pulling up on your bars. If you have suspension, try to work with it by popping up after it compresses. Notice how I’m pushing down before I pop up. Start by hopping a few inches and you’ll quickly learn to hop higher. It may be a good idea to practice track stands as well. Once you can English bunny hop, approach a staircase from the side and get your front wheel on to the first step. When you hop up to the next step, your wheels will remain on two different steps. This positioning will help keep you stable, but you could also advance to the next step with both wheels if you feel confident enough. Do this on your commute, and you’ll look like a boss. There’s one more way to get up stairs, and that’s to just bunny hop entire flights. Sure, you won’t be doing this on really big staircases but for a few steps at a time it’s really fun. Obviously, you’ll need to learn how to bunny hop. Once you can hop like an animal, just approach the stairs at a good speed and go balls out as soon as your front wheel nears the bottom step. As is the case with all bunny hops, you really need to drop your saddle for this one. Once you can get up stairs on your bicycle, you can commute in style, or escape security guards with ease. If the security guard is on a bicycle, you’d better hope they haven’t been watching my tutorials. Thanks for watching….try to ride safe, and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 1187213 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to use a CO2 tire inflator
 
01:45
Threaded Co2 cartridges are available at most bike shops, or even for real cheap on Amazon. Some inflators work with non threaded cartridges, but the threaded ones are more popular, and a lot more reliable in my opinion. This attachment just screws on to the end and punctures the cartridge. How you fix your flat is your business, but I usually use patches when I’m out on the trails. Road bike tubes are pretty small, but mountain bike tubes are just too bulky for me to carry everywhere. Once you’ve made your repair, just tighten the Co2 cartridge on real tight, and you’re ready to go. When you release the Co2, the cartridge will get super cold due to the decompression. It gets so cold that it could actually burn your skin, so you should hold it with part of your shirt, or grab on to something other than the cartridge itself. Some inflators cover the cartridge to protect you. It’s important to note that Co2 is designed to get you through the day, and you should fill your tire with normal air when you get home. The Co2 molecules can pass through your valve stem and rubber more easily than air, so within 24 hours it will likely be flat again. Check the description for everything you need to get started, and thanks for watching. I’ll see you next time. Compact & reliable inflator: http://amzn.to/1McF7vD Threaded 16g cartridges: http://amzn.to/1K92Mqe Shitload of threaded 16g cartridges: http://amzn.to/1McGRoF
Views: 663875 Seth's Bike Hacks
Walmart Bike Torture Test - Street Trials
 
02:34
In the last video, we took our Walmart Mongoose to the mountain bike trails, and verified that it would hold up to the short term needs of a beginner riding novice trails. I say short term because the hubs on this bike are wearing at an alarming pace. The headset is awful too, and by awful I mean it sucks shit. So now there's only one thing left to find out. What can I do on this bike before it fails violently and catastrophically? Time to ride some street. Now, keep in mind, an experienced rider can do pretty gnarly maneuvers on even an entry level bike. It’s when you start crashing and taking hard landings that you can really tell what a bike is made of. This bike is made of pure, liquefied garbage. It must be. The parts bend very easily, but you can just bend them back. I’m not sure how I feel about that. We kept subjecting this bike to increasing levels of abuse, bending and tweaking it back into place as we went along. You’ve gotta admit, it shouldn’t have survived this drop. The chainring can’t take a hit, but we’ll let that slide. After getting the Mongoose running again, I was pretty sure that any more damage would require tools to correct. So, I decided to attempt a 360 on it. After dicking with the wheel and front brakes, I was able to limp home on this bike, but I think it's safe to say you shouldn’t be riding street trials on a Walmart Mongoose. There actually exists a discussion board all about buying, repairing, and modifying department store bikes. That’s cool. These guys are hobbyists and they know what they’re getting themselves into. As for the average joe or jane who’s looking to start mountain biking, you’re probably better off at a bike shop that can stand by their assembly. Even in the short term, it’ll save you money and frustration. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time. If you have a department store bike, and need some ideas on keeping it maintained, here's the best resource you could possibly use: http://bigboxbikes.com If you want that Mongoose for some reason: http://amzn.to/1GF4UFP Hustle by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100793 Artist: http://incompetech.com/
Views: 1130556 Seth's Bike Hacks
Lifelong BMX Rider tries mountain bike at Whistler
 
06:13
This short film premiered in front of a live audience at Crankworx 2018, and was funded by Diamondback Bicycles and Box Components. It was for a film competition called Dirt Diaries, in which it won third place. The actual name of the film is "A Bigger Swing Set". The rules were that the film must be 6 minutes or less, and feature Whistler Blackcomb and/or Whistler Valley. The film is centered around my childhood friend, Scott, who is still a BMXer. He has never touched a mountain bike! I knew that the best way to get him hooked would be to introduce him to downhill, since jump trails would be so familiar to him. Someday I'll take Scott out for a proper climb, and show him about suffering. Hopefully he still loves mountain biking after that! In filming this Dirt Diaries entry, I certainly think we made Scott a believer. #mtb #mountainbiking
Views: 678792 Seth's Bike Hacks
BMX for Beginners - Getting started
 
02:45
next video: https://youtu.be/YWTzU6KhDT0 This is my SE Everyday, which I picked up a few days ago at a bike shop. It’s a solid entry level BMX bike, which costs around $300. This likely puts me in the same situation as you, whether you’re hopping on a BMX for the first time, or picking up the sport again after years of hiatus. Let’s take a look at my SE. Notice the steel frame, the heavy duty 3-piece crank, the compact drivetrain, and the two-piece handlebars. These are the features you’ll find on almost ANY decent BMX bike today, but there are lots of other parts of the setup to consider, like brakes vs no-brakes, pegs, how many pegs, etc. We’ll get into all of that stuff later on, but right now all you need to know is that a good BMX will be really heavy duty. This is because even the best BMX riders fail over and over and over again until they pull a new trick. Here’s me when I was like 16 years old. See? I didn’t even check the bike to see if it was okay. In BMX, if you aren’t falling, you aren’t progressing, period. This isn’t to say you’ll always get hurt when you fall. In fact, learning to fall properly is something that comes with practice, but the main point is that you won’t have time to worry about your bike when you’re on a collision course with the ground. We will be touching on some of the finer points of falling in this series. It’s been a few days since I bought my SE, and I’m starting to get used to it. At first I was looping out like crazy on manuals and bunny hops, but now the bike is starting to feel somewhat normal to me. It feels awesome to ride some street again. Compared to a mountain bike or even a trials bike, it feels really stiff, and twitchy, all in a good way though. Even if you haven’t started to learn tricks yet, it’s important to get a lot of riding time in on your new bmx just so you can get a feel for the geometry, the steering, and the overall ride. We’re going to start with basic techniques like manuals and bunny hops, and then we’ll learn how to not die at the skatepark. Then we’ll learn how to fly. Finally, we’ll move on to intermediate skills like 360’s, wall rides, and combos. All of this stuff is fully attainable in your first year of BMX, as long as you’re in good shape and can put in the riding time. In the next video, we’ll learn about BMX maintenance, what tools to use, and some of the things you’ll need to adjust as you ride your new BMX. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time. Here’s the bike from this series: http://amzn.to/1Yb4fcx Check out the bar I 180’ed the keg in: https://www.facebook.com/twoandwhatever
Views: 624407 Seth's Bike Hacks
4 BMX Skills to Learn First
 
03:45
Next video: https://youtu.be/6DaRKYQKsEA How to Bunny hop: 0:14 How to Manual: 1:05 How to Ride Fakie: 2:04 How to Jump: 2:52 There are lots of different ways you can ride a BMX, but most people will start right outside their front door, riding street. Before you start learning tricks and combos, there are some basic techniques you should be practicing first. Let’s start with the most important one, the bunny hop. A bunny hop is a combination of jumping straight up in the air, and pulling your handlebars to your waist. These two actions must be synchronized perfectly in order to bunnyhop, so it does take a little practice. First, practice pulling the bars to your waist just to get a feel for it. Roll along at a comfortable speed and start experimenting until you can get your crossbar all the way to your body. If you’re having trouble getting your front end up, you need to jump your body upwards more and put some muscle into it. To make the bike hop, pull the bars really hard and rocket straight upwards with a jump. You should be jumping your body as you’re pulling your bars, finishing the springing action in your legs just as the bars reach your waist. Don't worry about your feet coming off the pedals, as just holding the bars is sufficient to bring the bike up with you. Once you learn how to get up in the air, you can experiment with pushing the bars forwards to level out the bike. Then you can practice applying this technique by jumping on to and over things. The next technique we’ll learn is a manual, which is riding on your back wheel, not to be confused with a wheelie. Manuals are a great way to connect two tricks together, and they’re pretty low risk to learn when compared to some other things. Since Bmx bikes are so small, all you need to do to get the front wheel up is throw your weight back. Beginners sometimes have trouble with this mentally, as they fear falling backwards. To get over this, dick around in the grass and maybe even fall of purposely. You'll find that just by putting your foot back you can catch yourself. Once you learn this, you’ll realize that falling backwards isn’t as likely as it once seemed. In a manual your arms should be straight out, with your legs doing all the balancing work. Bending you knees brings the front end of the bike down, while extending your legs brings the front end up. Staying low over the rear wheel will make things easier. Manuals take a ton of practice to master, so don’t get discouraged. Even if you can only do it for a second or two, that’s enough to do a lot of things, like manualing a small ledge. Next we’ll learn how to ride fakie, and come out riding forwards. Fakie just means “backwards”, so riding fakie means riding backwards. You should learn how to do this as early on as possible, since it’s a prerequisite for a lot of tricks, like 180s. To get going fakie, you can push off a wall, or roll down a hill. You’ll need to crank backwards unless you have a freecoaster hub, which you’ll usually only find on higher end BMX bikes. Either way, you don’t need to roll far. By pushing your pedal and turning your wheel, you can whip your bike around to go forwards again. At first you’ll only be able to turn a few degrees, but as you get more comfortable riding fakie you should be able to get the bike all the way around. Even if you can only fakie for a couple of feet and come out, it’ll prove to be a really valuable skill later on. The next technique is jumping, which is getting airborne from a jump or a bump in the pavement. As it turns out, this technique isn’t much different from a bunny hop, but the “lip” or launch will help you get a lot more air. Just ride a lip at a comfortable speed and pull your bars to your waist as you get to the top. It’s important to synchronize the pulling with the jump, so that you start pulling at the bottom, and snap the bars to your waist as your back wheel leaves the top of the lip. My favorite place to do this in the street is on the edges of driveways, as long as they aren’t actively being used by cars. So those are arguably the 4 most important BMX street techniques since you can’t do anything else without them. Learn these skills and you’ll be primed to learn other stuff like 180s, 360’s, wallrides, gaps, and grinds. You’d better practice too, because next time we’ll be learning how to spin your BMX to do a 180 or a 360. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 1017401 Seth's Bike Hacks
The easiest way to learn bunnyhops - MTB or BMX
 
02:01
There are a ton of great bunnyhop tutorials on youtube. I think I have about 5 on my channel alone, covering a few different types of bikes. Today though, I’ll attempt to teach bunnyhops using a completely different approach. If you’ve been banging your head against the wall trying to learn them, then hopefully this one will help you make some progress. First, let's slam into this curb. It's a lot smoother to ride up curbs when you pop your front wheel up, or even just lean back a bit to take some of the weight off the nose of your bike. You should keep practicing this until you can get up a curb without bumping your front wheel on it. Once your front wheel is up the curb, you can try to do the same with the rear. At first you can just lean forward to take some of the weight off the tail of your bike, but throw your weight forwards more drastically and you can get your rear wheel up the curb smoothly. It's also helpful to angle your toes forward and scoop the rear up, but that part isn’t as important as throwing your weight forwards. Keep practicing this approach to getting up curbs, and then increase your speed as you grow more confident. Given enough practice and speed, you'll be bunnyhopping up curbs. So now you might be thinking, “gee thanks Seth, you taught me how to do a 3" bunnyhop”. But you don't need to stop at curbs. Take this technique over to something higher and you can follow the same steps. On a ledge you'll need some extra help with the the front wheel. On a mountain bike you'll need to throw all your weight down to preload your suspension, so you can pop up in sync with the recoil. If you have a rigid bike like a BMX, then don't worry about this part. Just crouch down and pop up. Now this technique teaches you to hop on to things, whereas you'll usually be jumping over things on the mountain bike trails. You'll be happy to know that the technique is basically the same. If you can hop up a 1 foot ledge then you could probably jump over a 1 foot log with some practice. Now before you do any of this, be sure to pump your tires up to max pressure, as it’s easy to get a pinch flat if you hit your rear wheel on the curb too hard. If you run tubeless tires, increasing the pressure will protect your rim. Good luck, and let me know what you think in the comments. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 381980 Seth's Bike Hacks
Why your bike shifts like garbage
 
04:28
This is the tool: https://www.sethsbikehacks.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge/ Although derailleurs can look intimidating, they’re actually pretty easy to adjust. We learned this in another video. The thing is, adjusting your cable tension, limits, and B screw doesn’t always do the trick. Old cables, improper routing, worn parts, and a whole host of other things can make your bike shift like total garbage. It’s no surprise that I had shifting problems after that crash. On the ride home, I needed to mess with the barrel adjuster just to keep it from ghost shifting everywhere. You can keep dicking with your derailleur to no avail, or you could get down to the root of the problem: the part it’s mounted to. So first of all, why does this happen so often? Well hangers are strategic failure points. They are designed to be weaker than your frame or derailleur so that they will fail. When your rear mech gets impacted, the hanger bends or snaps. This is better than the derailleur itself breaking, but even more importantly, it protects your frame. When an impact isn’t big enough to snap your hanger, it gets tweaked. You can stare at it all you want, but you’ll rarely be able to see which way it’s bent. Usually it’s tweaked in all sorts of directions, but we could just replace it right? Good luck with that early on a Sunday morning. Derailleur hangers are specific to your bike frame, so while shops will usually have a whole bin of them, it’s often times a special order item. Lucky for me, Alexander had a specialty tool that would save the day. This tool isn’t just for bike shops. Anyone who does a fair amount of mountain biking can benefit big time from a derailleur hanger alignment tool. The concept is simple; the tool threads into your hanger, and allows you to compare it to your rear wheel. Even if your rear wheel is bent, you can gauge it against a reference point like the valve stem as you move around the wheel’s radius. The trick is to make the gauge skim along the edge of your wheel at the same distance in all places. It’s easy to see where you need to tweak it out, or in. Now I actually keep replacement hangers around, since they’re bound to snap, but in this case I was unprepared. Hangers are also more expensive than you would think, making the cost of a gauge pretty palatable. This Park Tool model is what a professional bike mechanic would use, and it’s under $70. A cheap one barely costs more than a new hanger does. So even if you buy a top of the line model it could save you money, but more importantly it can get you back on the trail right away. Now I’ve bent back derailleur hangers by hand before, with varying levels of success. When Alex did it with the gauge, it was flawless, just like a new hanger. So if you’re scratching your head trying to figure out why your bike shifts like garbage, more likely than not your hanger is out of alignment. You could order a new one, go to a shop, or try your luck with the adjustable wrench trick. While those options sound great, I’m leaning towards buying that tool to avoid getting stuck again. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time. Here is Alex's Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfUGBBnxQYezwJM9wi3F-Lg And of course, check out Brian's channel too (other dude in the car): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3DFdy_qc-cqgKCyQTHLGzA
Views: 1340143 Seth's Bike Hacks
Why use a dropper post? KS Lev Integra Review
 
04:32
Full transcript available by enabling closed caption (cc) On both my Sync’r Pro and my Mission 2, I have a KS Lev Integra dropper post, which is the integrated version of the normal KS Lev. If you push the switch, the seat post moves freely up and down. If you release it, the seat post locks into place. This is similar to an office chair, except a little more refined. So what do I mean when I say this post is integrated? Well, some bikes come dropper ready, which means they have a port to run a release cable inside the frame. If your bike is dropper ready, you can install pretty much any integrated dropper post, like the Rock Shox Reverb Stealth, or this KS Lev Integra. If your bike isn’t dropper ready, then you can get a normal dropper post and hook the cable up on the outside. This is usually more economical, and easier to install anyway. Once you get accustomed to having a dropper post, you’ll use it all the time. For mountain bikers who have never tried riding with the saddle down low, the benefits may not be immediately obvious. If you fall into that category, I encourage you to drop your saddle and try jumping around a bit. You may find that you can do things you couldn’t before, like maneuvering on to and over pretty big stuff. Once you install your dropper post, you can extend it all the way up and adjust it to your full ride height just like a normal seat post. This way, you can drop it for technical sections, and then pop it back up to your perfect ride height at the flip of a switch. The KS Lev on my Mission has 120mm of travel. On my Sync’r Pro, I purposely bought a 150mm KS Lev since the frame goes lower. Both posts are installed as low as possible, which luckily puts them at my perfect ride height when fully extended. When choosing a post, I was trying to decide between the Rockshox Stealth and the KS Integra. The reason I chose the KS came down to reliability and simplicity, as it uses a cable release as opposed to the hydraulic release on the Rockshox. Sure enough, I took a spill at Grapefruit trails that ripped the cable right out of my dropper post. The repair was easy. If I had the hydraulic release, it would have been significantly more involved to fix. Overall I’m happy with my decision to get the KS Lev. Like most dropper posts you need to keep it clean and make sure it has plenty of air pressure. If I slam it all the way down and leave it overnight, it doesn’t pop up at first without sitting down on it or giving it a good bonk. I’d say this is not really an issue. The seat clamp is pretty basic, but it allows for micro adjustments to the angle of your saddle just like a good seat post should. The release on the bottom of the post is designed so you can disconnect it quickly for service, instead of needing to undo the cable. I’ll also mention that this post comes with a cleverly designed switch, which actually integrates with ODI grips. Although I appreciate the ingenuity, I don’t like using this switch at all, and it constantly rubs on my hand while riding. For a few extra bucks, you can get their Southpaw lever, which is way better, and should come standard in my opinion. The rest of this transcript is available by using the closed caption option. YouTube only allows so much here! KS Lev Integra: http://www.sethsbikehacks.com/product/ks-lev-integra-dropper-seat-post/ Southpaw Lever: http://www.sethsbikehacks.com/product/ks-southpaw-lever/
Views: 926004 Seth's Bike Hacks
Slickrock MTB Trail - The Most Famous Bike Trail
 
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The whole Moab Trip Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JTE4-AcoDzTbOE21M5rpmS- This is Slickrock Bike Trail, an 11 mile loop in Moab, Utah. It was ridden by dirt bikers in the late 60's before becoming what is arguably the most iconic mountain bike trail in the world. Early settlers referred to the surface as "slick rock" because on metal horse shoes it was a nightmare. Lucky for us, it grips tires like sandpaper. This makes it possible to climb features that look completely absurd. We got a chance to hit some of the Jeep trails in the area, and could not believe the traction. If you have the strength to keep spinning, every climb on the bike trail is doable. Just make sure you commit and don't stop spinning. Lose your momentum and tumble down an abrasive and unforgiving surface. At least the helicopter ride to the hospital would have been amazing. The high desert of Utah is spectacular at all times of the year. Stopping for these views can make your first ride on Slickrock last over 5 hours, easy. A strong rider can do it in under 3. Whether you're racking up miles or enjoying the views, bring lots of water. I thought a liter would be more than enough for early October, but I was wrong. It heats up pretty fast out on the rocks. Guide books usually rank Slickrock as a highly advanced trail. While I'd need to agree that it's pretty dangerous, there's nothing technical about it besides the super steep climbs. Most do agree that the ride is physically demanding. It looks like the hard wavy surface would let you conserve your momentum and fly halfway up the next climb, but that’s not usually the case. Sharp turns and creases in the surface will leave you pedaling hard after only a few sweet seconds of downhill. We're pretty spoiled these days, as trail builders have become adept at stretching out the downs, but Slickrock's maintenance crew doesn't have the luxury of altering the terrain. There are no manmade features or excavations. On Slickrock, the trail is a white line drawn in paint. From what I can see, it’s a good line to follow. Although it looks arbitrary at times, veering off of it can send you careening into a cactus patch or tumbling down a slope. Unless you know exactly what’s over the crest of the hill, you're best off following the markings. Where the terrain allows for it, the painted lines take you on a roller coaster ride, akin to a snake run at a skatepark. Cherish these lines and bomb them brazenly, because you’ll be paying price shortly after. Because Slickrock is such a famous trail, you can expect to share it with huge crowds at times. While I've read accounts of waiting in line to ride certain sections, it felt spacious and unrestricted when we rode it. Of course, some of the sections are shared with ATV's and Dirtbikes, but everyone is cool. When you reach the end of Slickrock trail, you'll be pretty exhausted, and if you're like me, ready to hit one of the many eating establishments in Moab. Luckily it's a downhill ride back into town. For advanced mountain bikers, Moab Utah offers some of the most treacherous and technical terrain around. That was the reason for our visit. Despite its mainstream appeal, Slickrock trail was still a priority; It's what you would call a bucket list trail. You’d be crazy to visit Moab and not ride Slickrock. Just make sure you come early to beat the crowds, and if you’re running inner tubes, keep your pressure well above 40PSI. I suggested that Randall reduce his tire pressure on a steep climb, and it resulted in a pinch flat later on. While Slickrock trail is extraordinarily unique, it's not the only place in Moab you'll find this riding surface. In the next Moab video we'll have a look at Bartlett Slickrock, which is an open riding area that feels like a natural skatepark. Until then, thanks for riding with me today and I'll see you next time. Bike: 2016 Diamondback Release 3 Music: Desert City by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100564 Artist: http://incompetech.com/ Check out Brian's Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3DFdy_qc-cqgKCyQTHLGzA Check out Alexander's Channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Z2l3Ma75Ck Slovak Subtitles by: https://www.youtube.com/user/HenryHostak
Views: 514332 Seth's Bike Hacks
Commuting by Mountain Bike
 
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Outtakes: https://youtu.be/xL2Al00GB8w Commuting to and from work is an American pastime. For some it's a long drive through traffic, or a series of walks and subway stops, but a very lucky few will ride to work this morning on a mountain bike. Mountain bikes are designed to travel through the rugged terrain found on mountain bike trails, so by definition they are quite durable. Potholes, curbs, and alternate routes are no problem. Strangely enough, the mountain bike might be the ultimate urban commuter vehicle. They're ready for everything. When you commute on a mountain bike there's no such thing as traffic. Come to think of it you can circumvent roads altogether. Roads are no fun on a mountain bike anyway. You should also consider fuel consumption. While cars run on gas, diesel, or electricity, bikes generally run on tacos. We all know how much those cost. Instead of wearing out like a car engine, your body gets faster, leaner, and stronger as it converts tacos into pedal strokes. What does your bike run on? When you have a stressful day dealing with clients or coworkers, the ride home on your mountain bike is a healthy way to channel your rage. You can ride like a maniac without endangering others, and that's something special. If you were to get into a car with a head full of stress it might land you in an accident or a fist fight. Here in Florida It's quite common for motorists to get in gun fights during rush hour. As fun as that sounds, I’ll stick to riding off of stuff on my mountain bike. By far the best thing about commuting by mountain bike is that you’re riding a vehicle that was engineered to have fun on. If you’re an active person who craves excitement, there’s no better way to kick off your morning. If you have some extra time, dicking around on your mountain bike is a guaranteed way to put a smile on your face. So to those who choose to commute on a mountain bike, we salute you. Today, you'll take the road less traveled, and traverse routes with no roads. Because of you, there's one less car on the road, and one more reason to eat tacos. Thanks for riding with me today and I'll see you next time. Directing and Videography: Domingo Olavarria Riding and Editing: Seth's Bike Hacks Camera: http://amzn.to/1ZqWnkt
Views: 332085 Seth's Bike Hacks
We suck at bikepacking - Biking to Key West EP1
 
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Uncensored Version: https://www.patreon.com/posts/key-west-trip-7928849 Next episode: https://youtu.be/arlJG1_GiK8?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JQ17-FsABwJKWJmFFWU1uL7 Alex's Day 1: https://youtu.be/gtDj63K6dXU Alex's Pre Ride Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QCqEFsMwcM My Bikepacking Gear Rack: http://amzn.to/2kJMYFt Bag: http://amzn.to/2kJOJ5R Sleeping bag (Warm weather): http://amzn.to/2kJNyDq This, is mile marker 0 off route US-1. It symbolizes the Southernmost point in the continental US, but clearly the house behind it is further South. To me, the real reason to visit mile marker 0 is to drive through the Florida Keys. From downtown Miami, it’s an epic 3 hour drive, starting with skyscrapers and ending in 7 mile long bridges through the Caribbean—or the Gulf of Mexico depending on which car window you’re looking out of. The final stop is Key West, and it’s worth the trip. If you like coconut trees, flip flops, and stiff drinks, you may find no better place. Of course, relaxation was the last thing on my mind when I agreed to pedal to Key West from my house in Fort Lauderdale. I’m pretty sure it was Alex’s crazy idea, and who could blame him? The poor guy has been off his mountain bike since November, when he dislocated his shoulder. A road bike adventure through the flattest state in the nation would be a piece of cake. So we threw caution to the wind, did absolutely no research, and retrofitted our road bikes with racks and luggage. Alex had a lot of camping experience, and I went through a road biking phase a few years back. I was no stranger to high mileage. 200 miles in 3 days would be easy. So the goal for day one would be a campsite 90 miles away in Key Largo. As we set out from my house in high spirits, we had no idea how humbling of an experience this ride would be. Alex and I fell short of Key Largo by over 40 miles on day one. Allow me to summarize why that was the case. Reason 1: Roady miles and bike packing miles are not the same. When you ride for training of for the sake of riding you choose your favorite route. We were forced to ride through Fort Lauderdale, Hollywood, Hallandale, all of Miami, and Homestead, encountering ridiculous amounts of stop lights, traffic, glass, and general treachery. City miles are slow and frustrating. We were moving at a snails pace, which leads into… Reason number 2: The worst route ever. I used Google maps to plan a route and tapped the little bicycle icon. This is great for finding the closest bikeway, but terrible for finding directions. Rather than have you ride for a mile on a less than ideal road, Google would rather you get on a ferry. Sometimes it would want us to take a bikeway for a few miles, make a u turn, and backtrack a mile to get on another bikeway—this instead of just hopping over one median. For the record I now know the best route, but I can’t go back in time to Wednesday afternoon, which brings us to… Reason number 3: A late start. We did some preparation in the morning and moseyed on down to the coffee shop. We didn’t start pedaling until around 11, since we wanted to wait until rush hour was over. I don’t know why it didn’t click that we’d be in South Miami during the second rush hour. Since my calculations were based on roady miles, I figured we’d be in the keys by then, but I didn’t account for all the stops, craploads of extra weight, and…. Reason number 4: Mechanical problems. For the record I did one thing right, and that was buy two really good brand new tires, and a reasonably sturdy rack with panniers. Alexander’s bike was f*cked. His tires were really old, and his rack consisted of 9 bungie cords and some backpacks. The only thing on his bike that worked consistently was the horn. Alex kept getting flats on his rear tire, and it took forever to take on and off the bike due to the rear rack. Between stops to fix the rack, multiple flats, and a detour to restock our supplies, we burnt through 2 hours of daylight, which brings me to… Reason number 5: Bad luck, which I admit is sort of a cop out for bad planning. Google Maps led us to a really jagged and rough fire road, which was out of the question considering Alex’s tire issues. So we tried to find a way around it and found ourselves trapped. I was going to do it, but Alex was actually the voice of reason. He might have saved both of our lives. During the day, maybe. At night, it was sketchy. So, 40 miles from Key Largo we decided to throw in the towel. Luckily, motels in Homestead are about the same price as tent sites in the keys. We were pretty bummed out, and admittedly doubtful that we would get to Key West on time. Both of us were on a time constraint, and the next day was looking grimmer and grimmer by the minute. After 50 miles of arduous urban pedaling, we needed something to boost our spirits. Full transcript in closed captions
Views: 431561 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to endo & "endo turn" a mountain bike
 
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Whether you’re doing one by accident or on purpose, endo’s are a great way to bust your ass on a mountain bike. That’s all the more reason to get comfortable with endo’s and practice them frequently. To do an endo, stand up off your seat and apply pressure to your front brake. For starters, try braking a little in the grass and getting your back wheel off the ground just a little bit. To progress further, don’t go pushing your brake harder. Instead, move your body further forwards to transfer weight to the front of the bike. On that note, be prepared to release your brake if you feel yourself going too far forwards, as it will allow your bike to return to a normal position. Even then, it may not be enough to save you. I almost always land on my feet when going over the bars, but I’ll stop short of telling you to practice this purposely. If you try doing endos enough, you’ll be no stranger to going over the bars. Once you feel comfortable with endos, you can learn to do an endo turn. These can be useful for turning around quickly, navigating a super sharp turn, or just adding some style to your riding. To do an endo turn, you need to turn and then go into an endo. You need to look where you want to be with your eyes to make this work. Once you’re up in an endo turn, you’ll need to maneuver your bike straight again, or the bike will kinda fold over on to the ground. You can do smaller endo turns and work your way up gradually. I’d say endo’s are extremely important to learn, not so much for the sake of doing endo’s, but rather as a training exercise to gain more control over your bike. Add this to the list of fun techniques you can practice on a mountain bike. Thanks for watching, and ride safe.
Views: 565005 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to MTB in Hot Weather
 
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This week, you’re no better off in Delaware than you are in Miami. It’s hot as balls everywhere. Of course, down here 92 degrees is just a typical Saturday, and I’m out on the trails soaking it all in—or soaking my shirt in sweat. So how do you ride in the heat? What can you do to make it more tolerable, and safe? Well it's no secret that a major component to riding in the heat is proper hydration. As one of my roadie friends says, “if you start your ride thirsty, you’re already done.” Hydration should start long before your ride, even the night before if possible. Eating right, or not too much is probably a good idea as well. While you don’t want to starve yourself, you’re probably better off with a banana than let’s say, carnitas tacos. So you're well hydrated, and laying off the heavy food. You'll still need to stay hydrated on your ride. Your options are a water bottle or a hydration pack. Which do you choose? Water bottles are perhaps the simplest solution, and they keep your body free of obstructions so you can feel the breeze. Although we’ve all lost a water bottle on a hard landing, a good bottle and cage combination can be pretty secure. For XC riders and most trail riders, it’s a great solution. For many of us though, water bottles leave a lot to be desired. First of all they’re limited in terms of volume. Even a large bottle doesn’t quite cut it for a longer ride—not in the South. Also, many mountain bikes can’t even accept a bottle cage. Not only that, but some people just don’t like having stuff mounted to their bike if they can help it, myself included. So, many riders opt for the hydration pack. You can get the comically small one that barely fits a car key, or the huge one that fits every bike tool you own plus two gallons of water. All of them hold more water than a bottle, and deliver it in the most convenient way possible. Having instant access to water without fumbling with a bottle is pretty nice. What's better, hydration packs are extremely secure, with one or two cross straps to keep things in place. There’s no way a hydration pack is going to fall off of you. All these benefits come at one huge cost though; hydration packs block the air that would otherwise be cooling you off. I should know, since I’m usually riding with this beast, which has all my camera gear in it. One little trick I use is freezing the entire pack the night before. By the time you get to the trails, enough of it should have melted to get you started. Instead of making you sweat, it feels cool on your back. On a hot day, you’ll have a steady supply of meltwater to drink. There’s nothing like ice cold water when it’s hot as balls out. Turn on closed captions to read the rest of the transcript.
Views: 642597 Seth's Bike Hacks
Mountain bike surprise! - The first winner
 
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Here's the first winner of the "Win Seth's Bike" contest! The contest: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JRwpsjF0YrLvNgy3kT_LWgZ Alex's Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSiYrtLspug Dan's Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyvzYw1_t_DiVdjV0kfgj0g The Diamondback Release 3: https://www.diamondback.com/release-3 If you’re watching this video, chances are you’ve been following the contest. If not, click the link in the description for a playlist of this contest as it panned out from the beginning. Last time, we got to see some of my favorite video entries, and you guys shared your opinions in the comments. There will be two winners, and today I’ll reveal one of them. Let’s do a quick recap of the finalists. There was Ike, who volunteers at a non profit bike shop, and actually races a bike he built from scratch. There was Chris who hosts community rides and wants a bike to lend out to newcomers. There was also Dan who since last time has started posting more on youtube. We saw him huck these huge road gaps on an XC bike. We also met Drew, who laid out a plan to surprise a local rider and film it. We saw proof of how Drew films things, so this was a story a lot of you wanted to see the continue. Then there was Alex, a humble kid from Norcal who rides a bike that’s much older than him. He appreciates and cares for this bike, even though it’s clearly holding him back. It seemed like a lot of you could relate to Alex. So, who is the first winner? Today was a great day for Alex. To him this was a total surprise. I reached out to his family last week and gave them the tracking number. They kept the whole thing under wraps to coordinate a surprise, and Alex could barely believe it. He keeps saying thank you over and over, and that gratitude is directed at all of you. It was you guys who chose Alex and now we get to see his story continue. Alex’s old bike had a head shock with probably under 50mm of travel. The dropper seat post, the Sram 1x11, and the slack modern geometry mean that Alex is no longer be outgunned, no matter where he goes. Alex’s friends were as excited as he was, and tag teamed the bike to get it assembled right. New bikes take some tweaking and getting used to, but I still wasn’t surprised to see Alex taking flight almost immediately. It’s worth mentioning that Alex wasn’t exactly prepared for this. When he woke up that day he wasn’t expecting to win a bike, or to film anything, so this reveal is only the beginning. Throughout this riding season we’ll get to see Alex’s story pan out, and watch his riding style grow and evolve. As he collects footage, I’ll post some videos here, but you can also check his channel in the link below. As for this contest, it’s not over yet. We still get to find out who wins my personal bike; The bike that has been a major part of this channel since last summer. We’ll also check in with some of the other finalists and see if we can’t still make a difference in their lives too. Until then, thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 471733 Seth's Bike Hacks
BMX Basics - 7 Skatepark Skills
 
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0:20 Skatepark Etiquette/Choosing your line 0:53 Riding quarter pipes 1:29 Pumping 2:00 Dropping in 2:33 Fly outs 3:10 Dropping in from pegs 3:28 Stalling @austin _sager - 360 Tailwhip @og_nick_mantz - Backflip The first thing you need to know is skatepark etiquette. Normally, riders will take a path across the park where they hit a few ramps and then rest for a minute on the other side. This is called a line. When you go out on the ramps you should know what line you want to take first. Crashes usually happen when someone is riding in an unpredictable way, or ignoring the lines that other people are taking. Be considerate, and observe the skatepark before you jump into the mix. After you watch for a bit, you’ll have a much better idea of what line to take, and who to keep an eye on. Like that scooter kid who just finished his 4th mountain dew. Next, you’re going to need to learn how to ride quarter pipes. We’ll assume you’ve already been messing around on your BMX in the street, so it shouldn’t be too hard for you to ride up and down a mellow quarter pipe just by turning around. You’ll quickly grow comfortable with the transition and work your way higher and higher up the quarter. As you move on to bigger quarters, you’ll want to practice hopping slightly to turn around. While turning around on an embankment requires a bunnyhop, you don’t need to do this on a quarter. Just pull your bike towards your body slightly, and you’ll feel it leave the ramp. Eventually, you’ll be able to get your front wheel over the top, and then your back wheel. Now you’re airing out. Next, you can learn to ride more efficiently by pumping. Kind of like a swing set or a rocking horse, pumping is how you’ll gain speed on ramps by shifting your weight around instead of pedaling. As you go up or down a ramp, you want to shift your weight back in sync with the transition. You’ll know you have it figured out when you can start at the bottom of a miniramp, and work your way up higher and higher without pedaling. You’ll find that pumping is very easy to learn. It’s a lot more fun than pedaling, and it gives you way more style points. Once you’ve gotten pretty comfortable with pumping and riding quarter pipes, you should learn to drop in from the deck. Again, starting on a small one first is probably the best way to learn. Notice the metal piping at the top. This is called coping. The trick to dropping in is to ride parallel to the coping and turn into the ramp. Because coping can sometimes be slippery, I recommend actually lifting your front wheel over it a bit. By dropping in parallel to the coping with your wheel turned, you avoid needing to nosedive into the ramp to make your transition. In fact, you’ll pretty much end up in the same position you would if you were just riding up and down the quarter. Now, you’re going to want to get back on to the deck so you can take a break. By throwing your body forwards as you ride up the quarter, you can get your bike over the coping and on to the deck. You can put a foot out to get back on to the deck, but go a little faster and you can do a fly out. Fly outs are really fun, and they’re actually one of the best ways to learn tricks since they send you straight up and straight down. Since you’re basically going 0 mph when you land, it’s easier to pull off tricks without executing them perfectly. Learn fly outs on small quarters, and work your way up to the big ones. If you have pegs, you may also want to learn how to stall on the coping. First, get comfortable with dropping in from your pegs. To do this, throw your body weight over the center of the ramp, and then immediately turn your front wheel to roll back in. If you don’t center your weight over the ramp first, you’re just going to end up sliding down the ramp sideways. Commit to throwing your weight over the ramp, and the rest will come naturally. Dropping in from pegs is actually easier than dropping in from the deck. Learn this, and then work on your stalls. Start by riding up the quarter and carving towards the coping. Make sure your pegs are getting above the coping, and then push your bike off to the side. At this point, you should be using your momentum to bring your body over the center of the coping. If you can’t quite get this part, it’s easy to just turn your front wheel and drop back in. This is probably what will end up happening the first few times, but I find that the worst that will happen is that you slide down the ramp or need to drop back in. Find your balance point, and you’ll be stalling in no time.
Views: 478707 Seth's Bike Hacks
Portable kicker ramp for BMX or MTB
 
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Subscriber ramps: https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/sbhramp/ In another video we built a kicker ramp with a little down slope for beginners. That ramp now lives at Virginia Key Mountain Bike Park in Miami, right next to the teeter totter. It works exactly as designed, and the kids love it. This ramp will live a happy life, and teach many riders how to get air for the first time. If you haven’t seen the video on that ramp, check the description for a link. People have been asking me to build a bigger ramp, but that’s not going to happen until I have a place to put one. Even the last ramp was a pain to haul around. If I had a place to put a bigger ramp, I’d probably be building a dirt jump as we speak. In fact, what I really need is a smaller ramp that I can bring places. This would get far more use, and be an important prop in future videos. Let’s build one right now. We’re buying one sheet of plywood because that’s the minimum amount we can get. We’re going to have a ton of wood left over. Because this ramp is small enough to bring indoors or leave in the trunk of a car, I don’t need pressure treated plywood or stainless hardware. James is here to help me again, and to make sure that we’re following all safety precautions. First we’ll trace the sides of the ramp on the plywood. It’s 3 feet long, 12 inches high, and has a downslope 6 inches from the end. This sloped part looks useless, but it’s there to stabilize the ramp and keep it from flipping forwards when you hit it going fast. To trace a nice mellow curve, we’ll use the PVC pipe method. This bend should give us a pretty serious pop, without being too steep for mountain bike wheels. Now that we’re done tracing, we’ll cut out the shape with a jigsaw. Tracing another piece from the first one will ensure that both sides are identical. With a chop saw, we’ll make our 16 inch cross bars from this 2x4. These will be fastened to the sides with deck screws to create the frame of the ramp. To cut our surface, we need to measure the curve, and add a couple of inches to the end. With a flexible ruler, this is an easy task. As is the case with plywood, it bends easily and stays in place with screws. A little sanding, and our portable kicker ramp is ready to ride. As you can see, we’ve barely used any wood compared to our last project. Time to go for a ride. I actually don’t know many BMX tricks, but maybe this ramp will give me the opportunity to learn some. This ramp turned out so lightweight, that I can carry it on my bike fairly easily. With a bike trailer, transport would be even easier. This gives us the opportunity to make any downslope into a landing, so I’ll be keeping my eyes open for more places to set this up. If you want to build this ramp I think it’s easy enough by just looking at what we did here, but I left some basic measurements in the description. Yours can be longer, wider, or steeper, but I think that this size is a pretty nice balance for portability. If you’ve already built the last ramp, or even a ramp influenced by the videos on this channel, hashtag it so we can all admire it. Better yet, post a video clip! #SBHramp Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time. Here's the old ramp: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxvYN4pfjFQ MEASUREMENTS Height: 12 inches Width: 16 inches Length (bottom): 36 inches Length (top): 30 inches So the slope at the back of the ramp starts 6 inches from the end. This part makes the ramp more stable by adding some footing. MATERIALS Some plywood. 1/2" or 9/16" is fine One 2x4 Drywall or deck screws, not too long: 1 5/8" is good TOOLS Jigsaw Drill Chop saw or circular saw is nice, but you could use the jigsaw in a pinch. Get the Seth’s Bike Hacks Face Stickers! http://www.sethsbikehacks.com/product/face-stickers/ Free Shipping
Views: 965960 Seth's Bike Hacks
Porcupine Rim MTB trail in Moab
 
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The whole Moab Trip Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JTE4-AcoDzTbOE21M5rpmS- Today, we’re going to ride Porcupine Rim, one of the most technical and dangerous rides in Moab, Utah. The original plan was to ride a 26 mile odyssey called The Whole Enchilada, for which we had already booked a shuttle. The weather didn’t cooperate, but the shuttle company gave us the option of starting further down the mountain. This meant we could still ride Porcupine Rim. We took them up on that. The driver instructed us to take Jimmy Keen trail for a few miles. This was a fun, flowy warm up, which ended at UPS, or Upper Porcupine Singletrack. This is where the party gets started. UPS has everything from slickrock, to sand, to fast and windy sections. Sometimes the trail runs right along the edge of the mountain, revealing amazing views of Castle Valley. When you see pictures of Porcupine Rim you’ll always see shots like this. I don’t know whether the fog and rain made the view worse, or even more magnificent. We stopped quite a few times to to soak in the scenery and let everyone group back up. The trails are actually well marked, but I somehow ended up off track quite a few times. The others quickly learned the consequences of taking my wheel. After shredding UPS for a few miles, we reached LPS, or Lower Porcupine Singletrack. This is where things really start to get interesting because you can take one of two routes to the lower section. We took the one to the right, which was an impossibly tight switchback. The second left hand turn took me a few tries to clean. This switchback seemed like a qualifier for what was to come, because the really rough stuff was ahead of us. We were bombing so many ledges so fast that eventually one got the best of me. It was slanted in the opposite direction of the trail. A few repairs up on the handlebars and we were on our way. Even if you follow the trail on LPS there are so many spots that you can improvise on. This makes choosing your line very important, as one line could be easy flying while another could send you over your bars. Lower Porcupine Singletrack eventually gives way to a Jeep road, or as the sign says, simply “Porcupine Rim”. This seems to be the only part of the trail that people complain about, and I guess I can see why. It’s the single longest section, which is composed of loose, unvaried, chunky doubletrack. It’s definitely not my favorite section but we were all smiling ear to ear the whole way. If you’re a good descender with a capable bike you can totally bomb the Jeep road. The scenery is also incredible in every direction, and if you’re taking your time, there are fun slickrock features to session along the way. There were a couple of times we stopped just to discuss what an awesome time we were having, so I thought the Jeep road was fun. Still, it seems plain and boring compared to the final section along the Colorado river. This is known as Porcupine Singletrack, and it’s the stuff of legends. Things get faster in this section, and everything on your right starts to get increasingly interesting. After a few minutes, you’re riding along a cliff, fast as balls. As the exposure increases, so too does the difficulty of the features. It’s like the last level of a video game, where everything culminates into one epic battle to the finish. Things keep ramping up. We regrouped and reached a pathway between two boulders. That’s me going OTB on a 2 inch high rock. After watching this from 3 different camera angles it’s still not clear what happened. I licked my wounds and climbed back up to clean it. At the bottom of those rocks, it wasn’t immediately apparent where the trail went, but there was a sign. Whoever decided to leave this ledge here as a final technical challenge deserves a medal. They could have piled some rocks in front of it, or chipped away at the top to mellow it out, but instead of dumbing it down they left one gem of an obstacle for advanced riders. It took me 3 attempts. If you’ve ridden or attempted this feature I want to hear about it in the comments. For the whole transcript, please turn on the closed captions. Faceoff by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100403 Artist: http://incompetech.com/ Brian's Video on this same ride: Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7je2RYtZNmA Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_1R1pUOtg4 Alexander's Video on Porcupine Singletrack: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4Kohz9VQhs
Views: 1737428 Seth's Bike Hacks
Why hitch bike racks rock - Saris Superclamp 2016
 
03:09
About 90% of my audience is old enough to drive, and the rest of you will be driving soon enough. Even though I’d like less cars on the road, they’re a big part of living in America—besides, many of us use our cars to get to the mountain bike trails. If you just started cycling, chances are you got caught off guard the first time you needed to transport your bike somewhere. In an SUV or hatchback you can usually fit a bike easy enough, but if you can’t fold the seats down you’re stuck taking at least one wheel off. I need to take off both wheels to fit my hardtail in the back of my Mazda, that is if I leave the seats up. If you’re doing this, watch out for the dreaded pedal to the rear window, which could ruin your week big time. It’s no wonder that the vast majority of cyclists choose to transport their bikes with a rack. I moved down to Florida in a mini Cooper with a Saris Bones rack on it. This is one of the most common trunk racks, and it’s arguably the best one on the market, but it’s still a trunk rack. At the end of the day the only benefits of a trunk rack are cost and portability. They block the whole trunk, they’re a pain to take on and off, they mess with your cables, and they don’t work on a good number of bikes. If you don’t mind spending a little money, you can get something way more convenient and secure. Roof racks can fit on pretty much any car, and hitch racks require a receiver, which can be installed on pretty much any car. I prefer upright hitch racks though because they keep the bike close to the ground and don’t make contact with any part of the car’s body. For mountain bikers especially, I think they’re a great option. The day I picked up my Mazda, I had a 2 inch receiver installed for about $175. I don’t plan on towing anything, so it's fine for bike racks. There are tons of great hitch racks out there, but I’ll show you my Saris Superclamp, which I really like, and never remove from my car, ever. This goes against best practices, but I like being able to load my bike up on a moment’s notice. The Superclamp holds your bike in place using only the wheels, so at no point does it make contact with the frame or cables. It even has these cable locks, which aren’t quite sufficient for overnight parking, but do secure the bike during pitstops. The lock also serves other functions. In well under 30 seconds, I can load up two bikes and drive off. No scratches on my car, no setup time, and no pesky straps. I still haven’t tried putting the swing bike on it, but as far as I know it can carry anything but a recumbent. As someone who’s owned roof racks, trunk racks, and hitch racks, I can tell you my personal favorite is the hitch rack, and in the mountain biking community I’m not alone. Sure, roof racks are nice, and they’re especially great for leased cars since they don’t require a hitch, but you usually can’t take them through a carwash. Hitch racks are bolted directly to your car’s chassis, and are the most secure by any measurement. They don't pose a risk to your paint, and they're by far the easiest to use. As long as you don’t get rear ended, your bike will be safe and sound. So whether you're throwing your bike in the trunk, using a hitch rack, or sticking those crazy suction cup things on your window, it's fair to say that you're putting your car to good use. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time. The Superclamp: http://www.saris.com/product/superclamp-2 Support your local bike shop: http://www.saris.com/dealer-locator
Views: 284705 Seth's Bike Hacks
We STILL suck at bikepacking - Biking to Key West EP2
 
08:54
Next episode https://youtu.be/z81PJtgwAXE Uncensored Version: https://www.patreon.com/posts/key-west-tip-day-7950006 Previous Episode: https://youtu.be/BKSQjXmB0q8?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JQ17-FsABwJKWJmFFWU1uL7 My Bikepacking Gear Rack: http://amzn.to/2kJMYFt Bag: http://amzn.to/2kJOJ5R Sleeping bag (Warm weather): http://amzn.to/2kJNyDq Tires: http://amzn.to/2kRWS8f In the last video, we fought our way through the Miami Metropolitan area—and I mean all the way. After fighting traffic, glass, mechanical problems, and bad luck, we had no choice but to crash at a motel in Homestead. Awake and ready to make up for lost time, Alex and I set a goal of 80 miles for day two. That would put us in Marathon, about 50 miles from Key West. Almost immediately, Alex’s tire came back to haunt us. We thought we saw a Walmart, but it ended up just being a grocery store. It turned out that they wouldn’t have had a tire anyway. After searching the inventory of every big box store we could think of, we discovered that nobody carries anything narrower than 32. To get to a real bike shop, one of us would need to backtrack for 10 miles, buy a tire, and ride 10 miles South again to make the repair—that is after waiting for the shop to open. We decided to take our chances with an emergency sidewall repair. For the rest of the transcript, just turn on closed captions. Cool Vibes - Film Noire by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100863 Artist: http://incompetech.com/ Bassa Island Game Loop - Latinesque by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100840 Artist: http://incompetech.com/ Night Runner by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Artist: http://audionautix.com/
Views: 1068903 Seth's Bike Hacks
The rawest downhill park
 
09:15
Today, we ride downhill in the winter time! Windrock Downhill Mountain Bike Park in Tennesee is gnarly, raw, natural, and pretty scary at times. Get a taste of Southern downhill in this video. Check out Phil's video on Windrock: https://youtu.be/xXuQOOe36-s And check out the Pro GRT Race on MountainBike Mania: https://youtu.be/0RRouba7740?t=40m9s Follow these folks on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/windrockbikepark/ https://www.instagram.com/nekomulally/ https://www.instagram.com/rachrva/ My Channel Sponsors Diamondback http://diamondback.com Box Components http://boxcomponents.com Slime Tubeless Sealant https://shop.slime.com/collections/tubeless-bicycle-tire-sealant
Views: 525521 Seth's Bike Hacks
Weighing Tubeless MTB Tires  - Before and After
 
03:04
What we’re going to do today is only going to take a couple of minutes. What I have here is a wheel off my brand new Orange P7 RS. The vast majority of people with this bike will be running it tubeless, but of course it ships with tubes. During storage and shipping, sealant has the opportunity to clump, so all manufacturers to my knowledge ship tubeless ready bikes this way. The question is, how much weight do you save by pulling those tubes out and pouring in some sealant? Well today, we’re going to weigh this wheel, pull out the tubes, seal it up, and weigh it again. Very simple. Set up stock with an inner tube, we’re coming in at 2.655 Kilograms. Let’s weigh it again just in case. Time to rip these tubes out, throw in some valve stems, and seal her up. Now of course, I could make this calculation by weighing the tube and the sealant, but this is more fun, and probably more realistic. Weight reduction is only a secondary benefit of tubeless. The reason I do it is because I tend to run low tire pressure and get a lot of pinch flats. Tubeless has virtually eliminated that problem. Another harder to measure benefit of tubeless is efficiency and ride quality. Friction between the tube and the tire creates heat, which is energy lost. Without that extra rubber there, it just feels better. The benefits of going tubeless are so numerous that some riders are religiously opposed to inner tubes, but I’m not part of that crowd. If you ride casually, or run higher pressure, I think inner tubes are less of a hassle. You can leave your bike in the shed for months at a time and pump it right back up. If your tire is less than perfect, it’ll still hold air. You can take it on and off with tire levers without worrying about messing up the bead. Finally, for a beginner just learning how to work on a bike it’s easier to set up. So to each his own. All my mountain bikes are tubeless ready. But today we’re just here to talk about the weight savings, so let’s weigh this sucker again and check our results. 2.51 Kilograms. So that’s a weight reduction of 145 grams per wheel. That’s 290 grams or about 10 ounces or a little over half a pound. If you are one to count grams, then this would be no brainer. What do you guys think? Is this more than you thought? Less? If it weren’t for flat protection do you think going tubeless would be worth it purely on the weight savings? I want to know what you think. Thanks for riding with me today and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 270343 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to jump a MTB for beginners
 
02:40
Definitions: A "lip" is the part of a jump that launches you. A "double" is a jump with a space between the launch and the landing. A "table top" is a double with the center filled in for safety (basically). Today, we're going to learn how to do jumps. We'll start with the basics, for absolute beginners, and then go over some techniques for getting more air. The first rule of doing jumps is that you must be standing. If you try to jump sitting you'll have a real bad time, and for that matter you should drop your saddle lower than usual. If you're new to jumps, I assume you'll be starting with little ones like these, which feature a launch, or a "lip" followed by a flat area to land on. You may have also encountered table tops, which have a lip, a landing, and a flat top connecting them. When there’s a gap between the lip and the landing it’s called a double. These require a little more experience to master. Before you start doing these, you can learn the basics in the street. The driveways along sidewalks are a perfect place to start, assuming they're not actively being used. Try riding the lip at a moderate speed, and landing with both wheels at the same time. You’ll need to pull back a little. Actuallly doing a half assed manual should be enough to accomplish this. You’ll notice areas where there are two lips pretty close to each other. These can serve as mini tabletops to train on. Because the landing area will be pitched down, try to let the front end of your bike drop slightly to match the the grade of the pavement. The goal here is to refine your landings so that you can adjust your pitch on bigger jumps. Now you can take what you’ve learned to the trails. Scope out the landing area first if you can, and make sure you hit the jump dead straight towards the area you want to land on. I recommend you start on a table top so that you don't have as big of a drop for starters. Start small, and work on making a perfect landing. Once you can nail your landings consistently you can work on getting more air. If you know how to bunny hop already, you’ll be a natural at this part, but it’s not necessarily a requirement. Let’s go back to the street and hit one of these lips again. Instead of just riding off the lip into the street, you’re going to crouch down and explode upwards as you ride up to the top. To be more specific, you're going to compress your suspension while crouching down, pop up with your arms straight out, and then pull the bars to your waist. If this looks similar to a bunny hop, that's because it is, however a lot of riders learn this on jumps first. There are tons of things you can practice on in the street, but ultimately you’ll be using these skills at the trails. If you’re able to get height on sidewalks, you may be surprised at how effective a well crafted lip can be. If you’re not prepared, you can go down in flames. Repeated practice is the most important part about jumping. Sure, this is the case with everything, but gaining experience on a large variety of lips and landings will sharpen your reflexes and improve your judgement. Have fun out there and don’t try any jumps beyond your skill level. The sidewalks are there for you learn the basics on, so have a few street sessions to prepare yourself.
Views: 454957 Seth's Bike Hacks
What will Phil Build on Berm Creek? | Trail Boss for a Day
 
08:36
My backyard mountain bike trails are about to get a makeover. Today, Skills with Phil is calling the shots on Berm Creek. You could say he's "Philling in" while I'm injured. In addition to Phil, Kevin stopped by to dig for the day which ended up making all the difference. We made some adjustments to the "trouble double" and even built a brand new surprise feature off the sicknic table. Today is gonna be a good day! Subscribe to Skills with Phil: https://www.youtube.com/user/ThePhilkmetz See some of my history with Phil: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JQ8L5aPJa9P5I2G5ym2TGZt Check out the Berm Creek Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JSm7EK8IYTSteTMBq8IbdzT Berm Creek Shirt: #mountainbiking #skillswithphil
Views: 675181 Seth's Bike Hacks
10 Bike Hacks for MTB & Beyond
 
03:47
Life hacks videos are almost never useful sources of information, but they’re great entertainment. Today, we’ll be looking at 10 life hacks just for mountain bikers. Let’s begin. If you use action cameras the way I do, the cases get filthy inside and out. Just put them in the dishwasher with detergent and everything. They’ll come out looking good as new. A lot of people work on their bikes upside down like this, but sometimes it’s hard to get to shifters and things on the handlebars. Use two pieces of wood, or bricks to give yourself another few inches of clearance. It’s no work stand, but it gets the job done. It's amazing to me how many people don't know how to stand their bike up on a curb or log. Just kick the pedal backwards and the drivetrain will hold it in place. Put the pedal forwards and the bike won’t stay up. Do you know how to true wheels, but don’t have a truing stand? Use zip ties as pins. Now you can watch any tutorial on truing and get your wheel straight as an arrow. I have an old video on this in the description. Have any of these little patch kit boxes? Well they work great as first aid kits. I was able to fit bandages, ointment, butterfly closures and even tape in one of these. I’m sure it could be mounted under a seat, and of course you could throw it in your backpack. I know this sounds hard to believe, but I’ve seen several people get their stolen bikes back. Every time, they needed to prove to law enforcement that they were the rightful owner. If you can correctly predict that this piece of paper will be in the seat post or handlebars, it’s hard to dispute that you’re the true owner. Have a tubeless tire that just won't seal up? Adding particulate to your sealant makes it plug bigger holes. We used glitter for this in another video. While this does clearly work, it also gets messy and makes your sealant clump more. Hydration packs slosh around when there’s air inside the bladder creating empty space. You can bleed the air out by turning the pack upside down and taking a drink. This is super easy to do and works like a charm. We all get muddy and sweaty when mountain biking, so you can make a seat cover out of an old towel. Just fold it over at the top, and fasten the ends together with thread, staples, or whatever you want. The pocket at the top keeps the towel in place over your headrest, and it can still be used like a normal towel. If you use zip ties on your bike this little piece here can be dangerous, so most people use end nippers or even a nail clipper to get them really short. I use a knife to get it totally flush with the fastener. So that's it, 10 hacks for mountain bikers. If you enjoyed this video, share it with a mountain biker you know, and if not, click the like button anyway and then spew your hate in the comments. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time. How to true wheels with a zip tie https://youtu.be/fQ4g1QNg4dU?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JSlXF1Tik7gZoIX4S7Zpll6
Views: 2292878 Seth's Bike Hacks
Glitter and Tire Sealant - Does it work?
 
03:05
I've had a slow leak in the rear tire of my hardtail for months now, and I keep just pumping it up and riding it. I think we've all been guilty of this type of laziness, but this leak is coming from my sidewall, which means the tire really needs to be replaced. When I pump it up you can see air coming out here, but shaking the sealant around plugs the hole for a while. Later today, the pressure will be down to around 10psi if I'm lucky. So, while this tire is getting replaced no matter what, I'm going to use this slow leak for an experiment. Many riders have mentioned that mixing glitter into both homebrew sealants, and off the shelf brands like Stan's can improve their ability to seal punctures. It does sound plausible that the little grains of glitter would get lodged in punctures and make it easier for the sealant to do its job. Let's see if glitter can give my Stan's sealant an edge on stopping this slow leak. I'm going to mix some glitter in with the sealant that's already in my tire. This way we can't attribute a successful outcome to new sealant. My assumption would be that really fine dusty glitter works best, so I'll use this stuff. I'll put some of these little stars in too for style points. I'll go for a ride to get the sealant in every little crack, and then let the bike sit for about 6 hours. By now, the tire would have usually lost a lot of pressure, so it's time to check. No way, did this work? I'm going to go for another ride and then leave it until tomorrow morning, just to be extra sure. I must say I'm surprised. This tire is most definitely holding air. In the 3 months since this leak occurred, I have not seen this tire hold air for more than a half a day, so there's a good chance that it was the glitter that stopped this leak. I'm still not sold on adding glitter to sealant as a standard procedure though. I'm guessing that it also has side effects. For the same reasons it helps plug holes, the glitter may accumulate around other crevices inside the tire, and cause the sealant to clump where it shouldn't. Sealant is designed to provide a balance of puncture resistance, longevity, and non interference with other components like valve stems, so there's probably a good reason that Stan's doesn't come premixed with glitter. I simply don't have the answer to this. If it does provide better flat protection, it might be worth the payoff during a race, or a long distance trip where getting a flat could have huge consequences. These theories are all just speculation though, so take them for what they're worth. In any case, it was a fun experiment which showed that this trick just might work. Now I need to wash this glitter off myself so my wife doesn't get suspicious. Thanks for riding with me today and I'll see you next time. t-shirts: http://www.sethsbikehacks.com/product/hardtail-shirt/
Views: 575698 Seth's Bike Hacks
MTB Surprise - Drew Fans Rejoice!
 
03:31
As it turns out, we get to see Drew surprise a local with a new MTB after all. Enjoy! Here's Drew's Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSccbp_bYMU&feature=youtu.be Here's the entire contest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvCmsurC-50&list=PL5S7V5NhM8JRwpsjF0YrLvNgy3kT_LWgZ You guys might remember Drew. A few months ago I held a video contest where two of you would win bikes. Drew entered on behalf of someone else—a teenager at his local trails. Drew’s contest video was not only popular in the comments, but also successful in the cold unforgiving land of YouTube. Although great riding, videography, editing, and planning worked in his favor, Drew just barely missed the cut for winning a bike…or did he? The two contest winners won Release 3’s but Diamondback decided to supply one more bike for Drew. This one is a Release 2. It’s basically the same bike with different components. For instance, instead of a Sram X1 derailleur, it comes with Sram GX. Not bad. As promised, Drew got the bike dialed, tested it to make extra sure, and then found the surprise recipient. As you can see, Matt has been riding an entry level XC bike at the dirt jumps. So Drew’s story panned out after all, and now Matt has a new story of his own. We’ll check on our other finalists later this summer, but for now that concludes this contest. If you want to see an extended cut of Drew’s reveal, click the link in the description to head over to his channel. Finally, thanks to Diamondback for making this contest possible. Their bikes run the full gamut, from entry level hardtails to bikes like mine that can handle anything. So consider supporting a company that supports riders like Matt. Thanks for riding with me today and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 362049 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to Bunny Hop - My First MTB Clinic
 
04:17
In this rolling cooler is 6 gallons of iced coffee—I wish. No, more like camera gear and blocks of wood. Today, at 8AM, I'm teaching my first ever clinic here at Virginia Key Park. I don't know how to hold a clinic so today will be a learning experience; not just for these riders, but for me as well. It may not surprise you that I chose to conduct a class on bunny hops. In my other videos I’ve used several alternate explanations of this technique to try and get through to as many people as possible. Teaching this clinic has given me even more insight into the challenges beginners face. First of all I want to clarify that we're we’re talking about the American bunny hop. This has a lot of benefits over the English bunny hop, as it gives you the ability to go way higher. Learning this technique also helps you get higher off jumps. This is Allan, a very involved rider down here in Miami. He helped organize the kids event last week. Although he’s an experienced rider, Allan has never practiced bunny hops before today. When we got started he could barely make it over 1 block of wood. Allan was in good company. While a few riders already had the basic concept down, most everyone was new to bunny hopping. Even those that had a decent technique were still interested in hopping higher and smoother. Like we already know from reading the comments on my videos, getting the front wheel up is a challenge for many riders. For this reason, it’s a good idea to master this part before you start trying to hop. I’ve explained the concept of preloading, where you force your weight down first in preparation to pop up. Using these riders as a sample group, it looks like a lot of you might be moving too fast and jerky. Some people move down so fast that they're actually pulling on the bars. While preloading, you shouldn’t be pulling at all, in fact you should be letting gravity bring your down, and actually pushing on your bars to pop back up. If you’ve done your preload properly, you’ll be standing straight up, arms extended. It’s at this point where you can pull your bars towards your waist. Once you master getting your front end up, it's time to break some other habits. For instance, a lot of first timers focus on using their feet to get the rear off the ground. The truth is that once you get your bike up at an angle, your bars are all you need. Whether you ride clipless or flat pedals like I do, just stop thinking about your feet altogether. It’s possible that this might conflict with some of my past advice, but this clinic has made me realize that focusing on your feet does more harm than good. Because people were focusing on their feet, it actually prevented them from getting their rear wheels over things. If you’re having this problem, try landing nose heavy. In BMX landing nose heavy is a bad thing, but a longer bike with suspension forks is very different animal. I think everyone at the clinic learned something. Although I'd like to take credit for this, a lot of Allan's improvement was just due to practice and repetition. For the whole morning he kept trying, and tweaking his technique. This goes to show you how important it is to ride with friends. Without this clinic, I doubt Allan would have taken it upon himself to set this stuff up and try bunny hopping for two hours. Just getting together with your friends at a set time could be as beneficial as meeting with an instructor. So what did I learn? What will I do to improve my next clinic? Well no matter what topic I'm teaching, I'll be bringing some better obstacles that don't fall apart every time they get hit. I'll also be writing out the course and staying more organized. Another thing I didn't consider was separating the explanations from the demonstrations. Trying to explain something while out of breath isn't very professional. Although everyone seemed to enjoy themselves this morning, I’m going to ensure that my next clinic is as fun as possible above all other things. I think what made people improve the most was just getting together and practicing with the common goal of improving. Maybe I will fill that cooler with iced coffee next time. Maybe I’ll spike it with baileys…Maybe not. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 624957 Seth's Bike Hacks
Orange P7 RS Bike Check - Hardtail MTB
 
05:30
Orange America: http://aventuron.com/products/orange-p7-rs?variant=26315412161 Orange UK: http://orangebikes.co.uk/bikes/p7-rs Today, I’ll be doing a bike check on my Orange P7RS. I’ll show you the bike in detail, give you my opinion on it, and explain what makes it different from other bikes. Judging from the comments, it’s clear that a lot of you love the way my P7 looks. I’m glad to hear that because I spent about a week cycling through the colors before reaching the point of no return. One of the reasons the P7 looks so striking is because it’s made of chromoly, or steel. Steel bikes have skinny tubing, which gives them that simple, bold, and classic look. But steel isn’t all about the looks. Steel bike frames absorb vibrations, which in many cases your tires and suspension can’t. Creaking, cracking, clicking, whatever—you just don’t feel it on a steel bike, which makes it great for hardtails. You still get the response and rigidity you’d expect, but it doesn’t feel as harsh. Typically you would expect steel to be heavier than aluminum or carbon, and yeah that’s usually true. To get the weight down, you need really good steel, and it ain’t cheap. You’ll usually get a lighter bike for the money with carbon or aluminum, but steel isn’t about weight, it’s about…steel. You need to ride one to understand. So we’ve established that the P7 is made of steel, and that steel is dope, but the most important thing about any bike is the geometry. It’s the one thing you can’t change. I must admit that the geometry on the P7 is great for some things and not so great for others. Just look at how Orange has categorized it: Hardcore hardtail. With a super slack head angle, low center of gravity, and long reach, the P7 is made to plow through everything in its path. Its angles are so radical that the P7 actually hindered in some ways, but that’s okay when you’re looking for a bike with certain characteristics. Let me give you a few examples. One notable characteristic of the P7 is its low center of gravity, which provides stability. The P7 is really stable, whether you’re railing corners or drifting around on gravel. The downside? It’s a pedal smacker. I’ve gotten used to it and can keep my pedals out of the way now, but on rocky pedaly sections it can be a challenge to navigate. Another characteristic of the P7 is the longish wheelbase and reach. This also makes the bike very stable, especially on steep descents, however it also makes it more difficult to bunnyhop. I’m confident that with a little more practice I’ll be able hop on to a picnic table with it, but for now I can’t quite clean it. A lot of you have said that the P7 looks like it would be great for jumping. It is, but not in the way that you would think. I’ve used the word “stable” to describe the P7, and that’s how it feels in the air. No matter how fast or sketchily you’re jumping or hucking, the P7 pretty much goes into autopilot mode and lands fine. That’s the best way I can describe it. To me, shorter bikes with higher bottom brackets are more prone to botched landings, but they’re also way easier to boost and throw around in the air. Depending on your riding style, mood, or choice of trail, you may prefer one or the other. So I’ve spent a lot of time talking about how the P7 feels, but not a lot about the components. You can order it in quite a few different configurations, with the P7 RS at the top. It’s got a Rockshox pike, Sram XO drivetrain, Guide brakes, yada yada yada they’re amazing. You can look it up. Let’s talk about the notable component choices. First of all the Hope hubs are not a very common sight in the USA. The cassette sounds wonderful. Also, it comes with Maxxis High Roller EXO tires. These are really good tires with really strong sidewalls, which the most abusive of riders will greatly appreciate. Something I’ve never seen before were these Renthal grips. They’re ridiculously grippy, and feel great with gloves. If you go bare handed though they feel really gummy and it kind of freaks me out. Finally the P7RS comes with a chain guide. I haven’t installed it, and haven’t needed it. I guess it would add an extra measure of reliability. Otherwise, I just like riding my P7. There are days when I just really feel like being on a hardtail, and if it’s singletrack I’m riding then the P7 is an easy choice. It’s comfortable for long distances, and it can handle just about anything. So that’s my P7. Before you ask about anything, check the description for links. I’ve got some big plans for this bike in the spring, since a lot of you guys have been asking what a hardtail can actually take. I’d like to demonstrate that. Until then, thanks for riding me today and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 598027 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to Overcome Fear & Ride Scary Lines
 
07:00
What constitutes a “scary line” is relative. For some it’s a 2 foot drop, and for others it’s a 40 foot rock roll. The decision to try a new line must be yours, and yours alone, however there’s a way to do it right. Being overcome with fear and taking a “leap of faith” is a great way to get hurt. My friend Alexander recently tried a rock roll that he was absolutely terrified of. Instead of going balls out and hitting it blind, he took a planned and calculated approach which ultimately resulted in a successfully conquered feature! Learn from this story as we analyze Alex’s efforts on this scary rock roll. If you need to do anything scary, you can follow these steps to maximize your chances of coming out alive. Check out Alexander’s channel, The Singletrack Sampler: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfUGBBnxQYezwJM9wi3F-Lg Watch me doing scary lines with Nate Hills: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDV2mjRtuWU&t=470s My Channel Sponsors Diamondback http://diamondback.com Box Components http://boxcomponents.com Slime Tubeless Sealant https://shop.slime.com/collections/tubeless-bicycle-tire-sealant
Views: 1143525 Seth's Bike Hacks
Behold! The Fat Ripper BMX
 
04:09
If you’ve been following this YouTube channel you’ve seen swing bikes, tall bikes, and even bikes that are hard to call bikes. Today we’ll look at what is easily the most belligerent bike I’ve ever seen—The SE Fat Ripper. With 26 by 3 and a half inch tires, it’s definitely fat bike, but clearly it’s also a BMX. The Fat Ripper was designed and tested by BMX legend Todd Lyons, who is brand manager for SE Bikes. In his video, you’ll see that the fat tires turn bumps in the pavement into straight up ramps. It is Todd who sent over this bike for testing, so today we’re going to do that Miami style. The first thing I noticed about the Fat Ripper was how dope it looked. From the old school BMX adornments to the SE Logo shaped cutouts in the rims, this thing turns heads. Another thing I noticed was that the massive tires chirp every time the bike lands as the mass of the wheels adjust to their ground speed. That’s the only thing you’ll hear when the Fat Ripper lands, as these parts are battle ready. The Fat Ripper weighed in at 36 pounds, and to be honest, I was surprised it wasn’t heavier. After all, this bike isn’t just for show, it can handle the abuse you would expect from a BMX. Because of the weight, you need to be heavy handed with the Fat Ripper if you want it to obey your commands. Staircases feel like nothing. Curbs are like kicker ramps. Ramps, are like—ramps. If you’ve jumped on a BMX, you’ll be able to jump the Fat Ripper. I’ve ridden a BMX on mountain bike trails before, and it’s a pretty rough ride on the chunkier sections. The Fat Ripper feels more like a fat bike, but with BMX geometry that beckons you to take to the air. The rigid frame and bouncy tires make this pig fly off everything. Like the other novelty bikes we’ve tested on this channel, I can already smell the comments about how it’s just for attention, or that it’s totally impractical. This vocal minority is kind of a sad bunch. The Fat Ripper is unapologetically flamboyant and impractical, and that’s what makes it so awesome. It’s the perfect bike for the beach, social rides, bar crawls, or even getting around town in an unruly manner. It weighs less than most cruisers, and is more comfortable than most fat bikes. The Fat Ripper is the ultimate smile delivery device, and I can’t stop riding it. I hope it put a smile on your face, because we’ll be seeing a lot more of this bike around here. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time. If you want to see the full assembly video of the Fat Ripper plus other behind the scenes content, follow the link in the description to support me on Patreon. Also, check out the video that Todd Lyons made on this bike to see what it can really do. Want to see the full assembly video? Join my Patreon https://www.patreon.com/sethsbikehacks Thanks to my friend, Zach for getting all those great shots. We did this all yesterday morning starting at 7AM! Check out his videos here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIYpJNuK2Ik&feature=youtu.be Here’s some more info on the Fat Ripper, along with some more riding 2017 Fat Ripper https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcwVdQYl4P4 And here are some examples of what this thing can really do, in a video featuring Todd Lyons on last year’s model https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvHMD6St74k
Views: 1599812 Seth's Bike Hacks
SE Everyday BMX Bike Review
 
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http://www.sethsbikehacks.com/product/se-everyday-entry-level-bmx/ This is a review on my SE Everyday BMX bike. I purchased this for the sole purpose of doing some BMX tutorials on my YouTube channel. The bike was only about $300, and has exceeded my expectations. Proper assembly is of the utmost importance, as even before I did my tuneup there were parts of the bike that would come loose and/or make noises. Now, it easily takes a beating every day. I've seen this bike at varying price ranges. Usually at the end of the year when the new models/colors come out you can get it discounted. With that said, if you can buy this between 3 or 4 hundred, it's a good deal in my opinion, given how well built it is.
Views: 630749 Seth's Bike Hacks
Mountain Biking at a Skatepark
 
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This Saturday morning, the mountain bike trails were kinda flooded. But you should know by now that we don’t need trails to have fun on a mountain bike. So, off to Brian piccolo skatepark on my hardtail: derailleur, dropper post, and all. I was surprised at how easy it was to perform BMX techniques on a full fledged mountain bike. Sure, you’ve seen me ride street on the Trek, but skateparks are a whole different animal. The most obvious difference between a mountain bike and a BMX is size, but what I noticed most is that there’s a lot more stuff to break on a mountain bike. There were a few times where air burped out of my tubeless tires, and quite a few instances where the bike brutally impacted the pavement. I broke some cable clips, knocked my wheels out of true, and scratched up various components, but all told, my Trek 4900 survived. After a thorough tuneup it will be 100% back to normal. To make the bike more skatepark friendly, I set the tires and suspension fork to max pressure. Also, I dropped the saddle as low as it could go. If you plan on riding park on your trail bike, I suggest you do the same. I had fun at the skatepark, but it did feel kinda weird sitting on a mountain bike there. This begs the question: Could riding park help you get better at mountain biking? Well, to be honest I don’t really think it’s that helpful if you ride cross country. If you like to hit jumps and ride dirt though, a trip to the skatepark could help you develop some new bike control skills. Having ridden park on both a BMX and a Mountain bike now, I can say that a mountain bike is way easier on your body. For older riders who want to experiment with riding park, I might suggest a single speed dirt jumper, or something similar. This could give you the reliability of a BMX, with a little something to take the edge off the impact. On a personal note, I’m not 18 years old anymore, and it won’t be long before I’m looking for a more forgiving bike to ride park on. I look forward to building that bike in the not so distant future. As for my Trek 4900, I don’t think I’ll be back to the skatepark with it any time soon. It was fun, but next time it might not survive the trip. Once I was finished beating up my trek, I hopped on the BMX. It felt like a really well engineered clown bike after riding a mountain bike all morning. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll see you next time.
Views: 367271 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to get on a bike
 
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We don't often think about the process of getting on a bike, but today that's what we're doing. Known as mounting, this skill is likely the first thing you'll learn after figuring out how to balance. Enjoy this two minute discussion on mounting, and let me know which technique you prefer. Music - Rossini The Barber Of Seville Cyclocross clip https://youtu.be/1BnwK3u9n9k Thanks to my channel sponsors for supporting me, even with a broken wrist! Diamondback http://diamondback.com Box Components http://boxcomponents.com Slime Tubeless Sealant https://shop.slime.com/collections/tubeless-bicycle-tire-sealant And thanks to my biggest sponsors, my Patrons! With their help, I'm able to offer MORE Seth's Bike Hacks every month, including a monthly AMA podcast and exclusive episodes. Start getting more, here https://www.patreon.com/sethsbikehacks
Views: 491774 Seth's Bike Hacks
10 Hacks for Mountain Bikers in a Pinch
 
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It's the same as always! Here are another 10 bike hacks for mountain bikes, bicycles in general, and outdoor enthusiasts. Follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sethsbikehacks Teeshirts http://sethsbikehacks.com Check out my other 10 hacks videos, there are a lot of them! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5S7V5NhM8JSV_SBE9HUgdKgKw-wEob2V Later this year I'll begin building a free public bike park somewhere in the Asheville metro area. Want to become part of the story? https://www.patreon.com/sethsbikehacks
Views: 485019 Seth's Bike Hacks
How to wheelie a Mountain Bike
 
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Techniques are things we learn to become better mountain bikers, and tricks are things we learn just for fun. The wheelie fits somewhere in the middle, so it's no wonder that everyone wants to learn to do them. Let's fire up the sensei music and do some learning. Getting into a wheelie is a matter of accelerating quickly. Naturally, you’ll have a tendency to lean forwards while accelerating, but to wheelie you need to lock your arms and sit up straight. Get into a low gear, go slow, and then try pedaling in quick bursts. You’ll probably do a little wheelie, but you don’t want to do little wheelies, you want to wheelie through the trails like a G. To do that, you need to reach a balance point over your rear wheel, which may be further back than you feel comfortable with. So, take note of the fact that hitting your rear brake will instantly bring your wheelie to an end. Try experimenting with this to boost your confidence and lose your fear of falling backwards. It also may be a good idea to leave one foot unclipped, or better yet, learn on platform pedals. So your first task is to reach your balance point, which is really just a matter of practice and repetition. Your second task is to keep from falling over sideways. Just like riding your bike normally, you need to steer to stay up. During a wheelie, steering is done with your handlebars and your knees. Try to get a feel for this very early on, as it’s an essential part of doing a really long wheelie. So let’s summarize. Start in a low gear that you can spin fast in. Your arms should be locked, and you should be sitting up straight. Accelerate forcefully and your front wheel will come up. Keep accelerating until you reach a balance point, and then sustain your spin. If you feel yourself falling backwards, tap your rear brake. If you feel yourself going forwards, accelerate. To lean or turn, use your handlebars and your knees. A lot of riders have trouble getting their front wheel up, and some even say their bike is too heavy, but this is almost never the case. Usually, they’re just giving up too early. There are situations however, where your bike is the problem. For instance, single speed bikes may not be easy to wheelie at low speeds, since they’re locked into a higher gear. Even so, you can wheelie on any bike with enough practice. Once you do learn to wheelie, you’ll be totally hooked. Whether it’s to add style to your riding, blast over roots, or to get your front wheel up before a drop, you’ll be glad you took the time to learn.
Views: 1338265 Seth's Bike Hacks

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